Jul062015

Water Box Do’s and Don’ts

Do change the water in the water box after every pour. This allows you to look for gray slurry passing pistons, evidence of worn piston heads. It also allows you to monitor for leaking drive cylinder packing’s.

Do mount the water box cover with the mount bolts for solid stability. Especially after service maintenance.

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Do inspect Dog-Bone bolts for tightness. They must be secured with stainless steel tie wire, never with normal steel bailing wire.

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Do change the water box after long pours to help cool the hydraulic system. Water box water is used for 30% of the cooling system for hydraulic oil. Oil coolers take up the remaining 70%.

Don’t ever have hands or tools inside the water box while the motor is running. This reduces the risk of serious injury.

Don’t leave water box cover loose after maintenance or during use.

Don’t add soap to the water box water. This will wash the oil film off of the drive cylinder rods and will wear out the drive cylinder chevron seals faster.

Don’t leave water in the water box overnight or over long periods of time if there is danger of freezing.

Jul062015

Building a Counterweight Lock

Basic requirements when building a counterweight lock:
  • Weights must be at least 6,000 kilograms, but not well over. This could lead to a “nose heavy” boom when extended over the front.
  • The weights must be off the ground.
  • The pull lock cylinder must be retracted BEFORE raising the machine with outriggers.  The cylinder must be retracted to 2″ or less ( < 50 mm ) when the cylinder circuit goes to relief.  At this time the weight will still be on the ground.  When the machine is raised, with the outriggers, the weights will come off the ground.

Dimensions of the counterweight can be a simple block but can vary in many different shapes. For example, Putzmeister provides a bracket style with the unit. Regardless of the weight’s shape, how wide, tall, and deep the weight is should be calculated according to the material used.

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Jul062015

Rebuilding the Return Roller

First and Foremost clean all debris off shell and shaft and inspect for damage prior to building.

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Disassembly:

  1. Remove #6 outer from each end.
  2. Remove #5 outer from each end.
  3. Remove #6 inner from each end.
  4. Remove #4 from #2 at each end.
  5. Remove #1 from #2 by pressing from the opposite side of #8.
  6. Remove #8 from #1.
  7. Remove #3 from #1.
  8. Remove #3 from #2.

For reassembly, simply reverse steps 1 through 8.

Note: Click the image to view numbers.

Jul062015

How to Use Backup Controls

Understanding the functions on the manual backup valve bank.

Valve Bank: Most common with Gen 3 or Monochrome Screen, can also be Gen 4.

1

Stroke manually:

Short Oval Knob Handle: strokes drive cylinders. Push or pull handle and hold for the duration of one stroke. Truck must be above 1200 rpm.

Tall Ball Knob Handle: shifts S-valve. Push or Pull and release. Holding in position is not required.

2

Blue: Accumulator dump valve, manual operation button.

Red: S-valve cycle valve, electric coils driven by CCU, manual palm buttons on each end of valve.

Green: Accumulator pressure relief “Backup” 250 bar (3,625 psi)

 

 

Manual Valve Bank: Gen 4 Model3

Green: Drive cylinder stroke valve. Push or pull and hold in position for the full duration of one stroke.

Red: Accumulator dump valve manual override.

Blue: S-Valve cycle valve.

Hard/Soft Shift for S-Valve

4

Hard-Shift: In-line (shown)

Soft-Shift: Closed at 90°

Accumulator Bottle:

5Accumulator Bottle: 4 Liters

Pressures:

6

WP Water Pump Pressure: 190 bar (2,755 psi)

RW Auger Pressure: 160 bar (2,320 psi)

Manual Auger and Water Pump Valve Block: Applies to Both Generation 3 and 4

7

Green: Manual valve for water pump

Blue: Manual auger forward valve

Red: Manual auger reverse valve

8

Green: Manual valve for water pump

Blue: Manual auger forward valve

Red: Manual auger reverse valve

To operate auger reverse, both the Red and Blue coils or valves must be engaged.

Jul062015

How to Better Control a Concrete Pour

Discover the advantages that an EQV valve offers while pumping.

The Putzmeister Pipe Technology EQV valve, also known in the industry as a Squeeze Valve, Hose Shut Off Valve, or Air Cuff, prevents concrete spillage contaminating the job site and helps ensure a safer, controlled pour by quickly stopping the flow of concrete.

If one does not have an EQV valve, the alternative would be to physically fold the hose or stop the flow of concrete with a mechanical device, both of which can be unsafe and unreliable. The EQV valve is robust and flexible and is designed without any metal parts, minimizing the risk of injuries.

The valve connects to the concrete pump’s control box and operates off the truck’s air supply system. It opens or closes in a matter of seconds, opening automatically when the pump is started and closing when it is stopped. This makes it easy to use and a reliable method of stopping concrete flow.

An EQV valve is a great option to have when pouring walls and columns, when precision is essential. It is also useful if a pour needs to be topped off with just a small amount of concrete.

The EQV valve can be used with all concrete pumps, and retro fit kits are available to integrate necessary functions into pumps already in service. The Putzmeister Pipe Technology EQV valve can be used with end hose sizes 4″ (100mm) – 5″ (125mm). The valve meets or exceeds Concrete Pump Manufacturer’s Association safety standards.

Putz Post PM 4386-4 US

Jul062015

Telebelt Tunnel Skirt Adjustment

This Tricks of the Trade applies to all “active feeder” models below:

TB 110 – TB 130 – TBS 130

The tunnel skirts on Telebelts® are the parts that direct the material from the feeder onto the main belt. They are pinned in place and held down by springs and tensioning chains.

The tunnel skirts can be mounted IN or OUT, depending on job requirements. The IN position would be used for high-slump concrete to keep the concrete from running over the edge of the main belt.

The OUT position is used for low-slump concrete or other dry material. The OUT position exposes more of the main belt, to reduce “bridging” of material.

Steps to Adjusting the Tunnel Skirt: Moving the tunnel skirts is fairly easy and takes less than 15 minutes.

  1. Remove the boom cover hairpins at the rear of the boom, and fold the boom covers forward, exposing the tunnel skirts.
  2. Release the tension on the hold-down springs.
  3. Remove the hairpins at the tunnel skirt mounting pins.
  4. Pull the tunnel skirts back to remove them from the mounting pins.
  5. Move the tunnel skirts to the desired position, push them forward, and insert the retaining hairpins.
  6. Pull and pin the tensioning chains. MAKE SURE there is enough tension to hold the skirt rubber in contact with the main belt. More tension is usually required on the rear tension chains.
  7. Move the boom covers back into position and pin them in place.

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May032013

Belt(s) won’t run? I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

Belt(s) won’t run?  I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

2 of 3 – Hydraulic

This is the second of three articles about Telebelt belt-related problems.

From time to time, I get calls involving a belt that won’t run, or runs very slowly.  The call I like the least is, “My feeder (or main) belt quit running.  I replaced the pump, but it still won’t run.”

With over 800 Telebelts in the field, we are looking at more than 2,100 piston pumps.  We don’t hear of pump failures very often.

So, again, I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

Rule # 1 – Check to see if it will run with manual control.  If it will, the problem is probably electrical or in the radio.  If not, it’s mechanical or hydraulic.

Things that stop belts:

  •  Mechanical problems
  • Electrical problems
  • Hydraulic problems
  • Truck or engine failure (this is beyond the scope of this series)

 

Let’s deal with hydraulic problems.  By now you should have observed Rule #1 and you know the problem is not electrical and you cannot run manually.

 

Is there any pressure on the belt circuit, main or feeder?

If one belt is working, but one is not, connect a 400 bar gauge to the “M” test port for the belt that is not working.  This is explained in your manuals in the maintenance section.

  • Always hook up the 400 bar gauge first.  If there is over 60 bar you will blow your 60 bar gauge.
  • If neither belt is working, double check that the driver-side PTO shaft is turning.  This is just about the only thing that could cause both belt pumps to quit together.
  • If the belt works under normal load but stalls under a very heavy load, a larger displacement motor might be required.  Example: Feeders have motors that deliver optimum output under normal conditions.  Extreme loads, i.e. paving, might require larger motors with more torque.  Use a pressure gauge to see if the belt stalls at full pressure (280 bar) or if it has no pressure when it quits.

 

Is there pressure below 60 bar?

  • If it is below 60 bar, connect your 60 bar gauge.
  • Disconnect the square plug on the motor control valve for the pump you are working.  Another way would be to pull the belt card or belt card fuse for the pump you are working on.  This will insure you are not getting a false reading from belt card zero.
  • You will now be able to read standby (low) pressure.

 

Is there pressure above 60 bar?

  • Disconnect the square plug on the motor control valve for the pump you are working.  Another way would be to pull the belt card or belt card fuse for the pump you are working on.  This will insure you are not getting a false reading from belt card zero.
  • When the pressure drops below 60 bar, connect your 60 bar gauge.
  • You will now be able to read standby (low) pressure.

Location of Valves and Power Plugs

 

 

 

 

Belt Card Location

Belt Card Fuse Location

 

Is the pressure below 20 bar?

Using the prssure setting procedure in the manual, set standby to:

  • All feeder belts – 20 bar
  • Main belts except TB and TBS 130/600 – 20 bar
  • Main belts TB and TBS 130/600 – 25 bar
  • Boom/Outrigger pumps – 22 bar

 

Are the standby pressures low or erratic?

  •  This could indicate broken springs or a stuck standby spool.  Lightly tap the control valve (compensator) with a hammer – this often frees stuck spools.
  • Screw the pressure adjusting screw all the way in – this will override broken springs.
  • If these steps don’t work, shut the machine off.  Release air pressure on pressurized tank units.  Remove the low pressure spool and check for contamination or scoring.
  • If you think you have a bad compensator, swap it with the other belt pump and see if the problem changes to the other circuit.  (This can’t be done with the 140CC main belt pumps on a TB-130)

Note:  Compensator (control valve) problems are often the cause of pump “failures.”  A pump with low or no standby pressure will not come on stroke.  Repairing or replacing the compensator often does the trick.

 

If the standby pressure can be set:
Using the procedure in the manuals, check and set high pressure.  All pumps are set to 280 bar for high pressure.

  • If high pressure cannot be reached, eliminate problems that can cause this:
    • Motor leakage
    • Piston packing leaks
    • Valve spool leakage
    • Counterbalance or relief valve leakage

 

If you get this far, it might actually be the pump
The only way to truly test a pump is with a flow meter.  Even a bad pump delivers flow until back pressure is applied. You can also get a rough idea of pump condition by checking function times.

  • Time your belts to determine belt speed
  • Compare this to the times recorded on the pump test page, in the front of your manual
  • Rule of thumb; Main belts usually run 900 feet/min when delivered.  Feeders usually run 1,000 feet/minute.  If you get a low reading, check the motor(s) to make sure they haven’t been changed to a higher displacement.
  • You can also use function times to determine changes in the boom/outrigger pump.
  • A flow meter can also be used to check leakage rates from the pump case drain.

Last minute update:

 

A problem, with a customer’s TB-130, has been plaguing all involved for the last month.  They shelled the boom/outrigger circuit pump.  This was a true pump failure; what we call “grenading itself.”

After cleaning the system and installing a new pump, the circuit would work for a short time, and then the pressure would drop off.  Pushing and releasing the clutch would bring the pressure back, and then it would drop off, again.  Compensators, inlet modules, WBV valves and a second pump were tried, without any change.  The customer even took parts off a working TB-110 and the problem remained.  Three of us, at Putzmeister, with over 100 years of combined experience were convinced it was a problem in the boom control valves.

In desperation, Alan went back to the schematic.  Something we had not considered jumped out at him; the contingency pump circuit.  This is the small electric motor and pump that allow the boom to be raised, so the cab can be tipped, if the engine won’t start.  It feeds the boom circuit through a check valve.  The check valve poppet had hammered itself out of shape and it was allowing circuit flow back through the small pump.

This reinforces: 1) the value of the schematic, 2) the K.I.S.S. theory and 3) the “I’ll bet it’s not the pump” statement.

Mar132013

Update on Telebelt Belt Circuit Adjustments

SETTING PRESSURES ON TELEBELT BELT CIRCUITS.

The main conveyors and feed conveyors of Telebelts are two separate hydraulic circuits.  Each has their own pumps, control valves and motors and they are hydraulically independent of each other.

The hydraulic pump capacities vary.  Different models have different pump sizes, depending on belt length.  In addition, Telebelts that have direct drive pumps (TBS) and automatic transmissions use pumps that have capacities that differ from manual transmission Mack counterparts.

This is about pressure setting, not capacity.  Capacity (flow) determines belt speed.  Pressure is the resistance to flow.  If the pressures are correct, the pumps should deliver the required flow.  Pressures are checked with pressure gauges, supplied with the machines when new.  Flow is measured with a flow meter, which is not supplied.

Again, flow determines speed.  A “working man’s” flow meter is a stopwatch.  Data sheets, provided with the machines show function speeds when the unit was in final test.  For example, a test sheet might show 65 seconds to slew the main boom 360 degrees to the right.  If you obtain the same results, with pressures properly set, you can be sure the circuit is still operating as new.

Some things that can affect speed are; low throttle setting, pump wear, motor wear and filter conditions.  You have the tools to check the pressures, so here we go.

Take all test readings from port M1A, for the main conveyor, and M2A for the feeder.  Ports M1B and M2B are load sense ports used by the factory.

There are two pressure settings for each pump.  They are the Low Pressure, a.k.a. “stand-by,” and high pressure.

 The illustration is a TB-110.  The TB-80 is controls mount the same way, but the TB-130 and TB-600 have the controls “laid down” so the volume control knobs face you.  As a result, the TB-130 and TB-600  M1A and M2A  ports face downward.

You will need the 60 bar and 400 gauges, supplied with the Telebelt, to check the pressure settings.  ALWAYS connect the 400 bar gauge first, since there could be more than 60 bar in the circuit of a belt that is not moving, depending how the belt cards are set.

Gauges can be connected when there is pressure on the circuit.  It is not necessary to disengage the PTO’s to connect the gauges.

Pressure adjustments can be made at idle, or just above.  It is not necessary to go to full RPM.

Compensator adjusting screws will have either a lock nut and Allen screw, or an acorn nut that, when removed, exposes a lock nut and Allen screw.  Release the lock nuts and turn the screws IN (clockwise) to increase pressure, or OUT (counter-clockwise) to decrease pressure.

On Mack Telebelts, the front pump on the driver’s side is the main belt pump.  The pump attached to it is the feeder belt pump.  On Telebelts with a transfer case (TOR, Sterling) as well as TBS units, the first pump is the main belt and the second is the feeder.

Setting low pressure, main belt:

  • Start the Telebelt and engage the PTO’s.

    Method 1: DO NOTreset the e-stop.  If the motor control valves are energized, false readings are possible if the belt card zero screws are set too high.  Open the load sense shut-off valve manual bypass.Alternate method:  Reset the e-stop, but disconnect the motor control valve connectors, pull the belt cards out, or remove the belt card fuses.  This will turn the load sense valves on, electrically.  Opening the bypass is not necessary.

    Either method will produce the same results; 1. Load sense shut-off open and 2. no power to belt control valves.

  • Connect 400 bar gauge to M1A and make sure pressure is below 60 bar.
  • Switch to the 60 bar gauge on M1A and read the pressure.  Compare this to the original reading on the test sheet in the front of the manual.  It will probably call for 20 bar.  If the correct pressure is not read, adjust the low pressure setting screw.
  • Remove the 60 bar gauge.

Setting high pressure, main belt:

In order to check high pressure, you have to cause the function to go to relief.  In other words, you have to stall the belt motors or block the flow to the motors.  You can cap the hoses to both motors, or reverse the lines to one of the motors, which cause them to turn against each other.  I prefer the latter.

  • Let the air pressure off the hydraulic tank (TB-105 and TB-110 only)
  • Reverse the hoses to one of the main belt motors.
  • Re-pressurize the hydraulic tank (TB-105 and TB-110 only)
  • Connect 400 bar gauge to M1A
  • Start the Telebelt and engage the PTO’s
  • Reset the e-stop
  • Turn the main conveyor on.
  • Gauge reading should be 280 bar.  Adjust as necessary.
  • Shut Telebelt off and de-pressurize the hydraulic tank (TB-105 and TB-110 only)
  • Return motor hoses to their original position
  • Re-pressurize the hydraulic tank (TB-105 and TB-110 only)
  • Remove 400 bar gauge

Setting low pressure, feeder belt:

 Use the same procedure as for the main, except test at M2A.

Setting high pressure, feeder belt:

Use the same procedure as for the main, except test at M2A.  To block flow in the circuit, cap the pressure line going into the feeder motor.  This is the line that DOES NOT have a “T” in line.

Current production pressure settings – November 2010

 Standby Pressure

Main conveyor pumps except TB(S)-130/600 = 20 bar,  TB(S)-130/600 = 25 bar

All feeder belt pumps = 20 bar

All boom/outrigger pumps = 22 bar

High Pressure

ALL PUMPS = 280 bar.

 

Nov272012

Placing Dirt With a Telebelt

Placing Dirt With a Telebelt

Placing dirt can be a problem. Depending on your area, you could be dealing with clumps, stumps and lumps, among other things.  Moisture content can also be your enemy.  Here are a few tricks.

If you are using the aluminum Front End Loader Hopper (part # A306000), try putting 2×4 blocks under the front pads. This will raise the discharge end of the hopper and expose more belt to take the dirt out and reduce “bridging.” You will have to tie the front of the hopper down to the rail, to keep the blocks from falling out.

This shows a Front End Loader Hopper with an electric vibrator (part # A309849) installed, powered from the accessory plug on the Telebelt.  The operator has also raised the back of the hopper to expose more belt.  Note the chain and binder in place of the rear pin.

Also note the feeder is set up with the legs down.  This is the best way to keep spillage from jamming the tail pulley. Some operators of the small loaders complain they can’t see in the hopper.  They’ll get over it.

The best hopper to use with large loaders is the 3-Yard Hopper (part # A300042).  When using this hopper, keep the bottom of the skirts even with the top of the concrete hopper.  Don’t lower the skirts into the hopper, as that blocks the flow.  When the lower hopper fills, flow will stop.

 

 

View at discharge:  The ideal setup is the 3-Yard Hopper feeding a Low Profile hopper (part # A306001).  The transfer opening is large enough, plus you are not beating the concrete hopper to death.

 

 

 

Side view of Low Profile Hopper under 3-Yard Hopper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

An optional hopper grate (part # A309979)  is available for the 3-Yard Hopper.  It is strong enough so loaders can break up clumps.

 

 

 

 

 

It’s hinged, on the front and has notched legs in the
rear to set the angle of the grate.

Nov162012

Putzmeister Boom Valve Coil Tips

I have a little more homework and Info for you guys.

Over the years we all have had issues with setting and adjusting the boom speeds, either to fast or to slow, the function can feel rough or jerky or even black and white. Some have tried to repeatedly adjust the boom speeds with the Teleteach buttons or battery to no good result. If you need to constantly teach the remote you generally have a remote issue, other than oil temp variance the settings should stay relatively the same, week to week.

But there is another option you can easily look at for these types of symptoms.

The joystick is communicating to the coil on the boom valve, the coils can wear out, as they draw more Amps the range of motion changes, thus the need to adjust from time to time.

The plunger spool’s that the coil’s drive can also get sticky or gummed up over time. The images below will show you how to remove and clean the spools, test the coils, and look for issues. The coils are the same from valve to valve, so they can be moved around. BUT BEWARE, on units equipped with EBC this is not advisable, the computer is set to work with the coil and valve matched, adjustments to the EBC programming might need to be reset if coils are changed or moved around.

The leading problem we have with Mother Boards on 24 V systems is over Amping the fuse. If an outrigger or Boom coil is bad it can draw high amps and blow the fuse.  DO NOT PUT IN A BIGGER FUSE, RUN THE FUNCTION MANUALY AND FIX THE ISSUE.

 Other issues that can give you problems with these spools and other components on the unit are cheap oil, dirty oil, water in the oil, and high “TAN” numbers. These all lead to corrosion and sticky components all over the unit. Phantom issues that come and go are usually related to the oil and its condition. Do oil sample testing to ensure the condition of your oil. Oil that has water in it looks milky ONLY after it has become saturated with to much water, clear oil in the sight gauge can still have to much water in it. The only way to know for sure is to have it tested.

 

I hope this helps and brings out even more questions, please feel free to ask online or call PM CSG at 1-800-890-0269, or myself at 360-600-5695, or reach me by email at woodsa@putzam.com.

 

As always, be safe and keep the rubber side down.

Travelteck

 


PICTURE 1:
Coils are located behind the Boom valves. All the coils on a unit are the same, they can be swapped if needed.

Example: the Coil for the Boom / Outrigger is having issues, the Coil from the B arm could be used to swap with the Boom / Outrigger to get through a job.

Units with EBC rely on adjustments to compensate for coil resistance. On unit’s equipped with EBC you can change coils but EBC might need to be readjusted for the new coil. Without EBC there would not be an issue, but swapping coils to diagnose is not recommended on functioning EBC units.

High resistance values or shorted coils are one of the leading killers of Motherboards, NEVER over amp a fuse to make a function work even if it is for a “short time”, the motherboard will become the next fuse. Remember, everything you turn on with an electrical switch can be run MANUALY.