May032013

Belt(s) won’t run? I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

Belt(s) won’t run?  I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

2 of 3 – Hydraulic

This is the second of three articles about Telebelt belt-related problems.

From time to time, I get calls involving a belt that won’t run, or runs very slowly.  The call I like the least is, “My feeder (or main) belt quit running.  I replaced the pump, but it still won’t run.”

With over 800 Telebelts in the field, we are looking at more than 2,100 piston pumps.  We don’t hear of pump failures very often.

So, again, I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

Rule # 1 – Check to see if it will run with manual control.  If it will, the problem is probably electrical or in the radio.  If not, it’s mechanical or hydraulic.

Things that stop belts:

  •  Mechanical problems
  • Electrical problems
  • Hydraulic problems
  • Truck or engine failure (this is beyond the scope of this series)

 

Let’s deal with hydraulic problems.  By now you should have observed Rule #1 and you know the problem is not electrical and you cannot run manually.

 

Is there any pressure on the belt circuit, main or feeder?

If one belt is working, but one is not, connect a 400 bar gauge to the “M” test port for the belt that is not working.  This is explained in your manuals in the maintenance section.

  • Always hook up the 400 bar gauge first.  If there is over 60 bar you will blow your 60 bar gauge.
  • If neither belt is working, double check that the driver-side PTO shaft is turning.  This is just about the only thing that could cause both belt pumps to quit together.
  • If the belt works under normal load but stalls under a very heavy load, a larger displacement motor might be required.  Example: Feeders have motors that deliver optimum output under normal conditions.  Extreme loads, i.e. paving, might require larger motors with more torque.  Use a pressure gauge to see if the belt stalls at full pressure (280 bar) or if it has no pressure when it quits.

 

Is there pressure below 60 bar?

  • If it is below 60 bar, connect your 60 bar gauge.
  • Disconnect the square plug on the motor control valve for the pump you are working.  Another way would be to pull the belt card or belt card fuse for the pump you are working on.  This will insure you are not getting a false reading from belt card zero.
  • You will now be able to read standby (low) pressure.

 

Is there pressure above 60 bar?

  • Disconnect the square plug on the motor control valve for the pump you are working.  Another way would be to pull the belt card or belt card fuse for the pump you are working on.  This will insure you are not getting a false reading from belt card zero.
  • When the pressure drops below 60 bar, connect your 60 bar gauge.
  • You will now be able to read standby (low) pressure.

Location of Valves and Power Plugs

 

 

 

 

Belt Card Location

Belt Card Fuse Location

 

Is the pressure below 20 bar?

Using the prssure setting procedure in the manual, set standby to:

  • All feeder belts – 20 bar
  • Main belts except TB and TBS 130/600 – 20 bar
  • Main belts TB and TBS 130/600 – 25 bar
  • Boom/Outrigger pumps – 22 bar

 

Are the standby pressures low or erratic?

  •  This could indicate broken springs or a stuck standby spool.  Lightly tap the control valve (compensator) with a hammer – this often frees stuck spools.
  • Screw the pressure adjusting screw all the way in – this will override broken springs.
  • If these steps don’t work, shut the machine off.  Release air pressure on pressurized tank units.  Remove the low pressure spool and check for contamination or scoring.
  • If you think you have a bad compensator, swap it with the other belt pump and see if the problem changes to the other circuit.  (This can’t be done with the 140CC main belt pumps on a TB-130)

Note:  Compensator (control valve) problems are often the cause of pump “failures.”  A pump with low or no standby pressure will not come on stroke.  Repairing or replacing the compensator often does the trick.

 

If the standby pressure can be set:
Using the procedure in the manuals, check and set high pressure.  All pumps are set to 280 bar for high pressure.

  • If high pressure cannot be reached, eliminate problems that can cause this:
    • Motor leakage
    • Piston packing leaks
    • Valve spool leakage
    • Counterbalance or relief valve leakage

 

If you get this far, it might actually be the pump
The only way to truly test a pump is with a flow meter.  Even a bad pump delivers flow until back pressure is applied. You can also get a rough idea of pump condition by checking function times.

  • Time your belts to determine belt speed
  • Compare this to the times recorded on the pump test page, in the front of your manual
  • Rule of thumb; Main belts usually run 900 feet/min when delivered.  Feeders usually run 1,000 feet/minute.  If you get a low reading, check the motor(s) to make sure they haven’t been changed to a higher displacement.
  • You can also use function times to determine changes in the boom/outrigger pump.
  • A flow meter can also be used to check leakage rates from the pump case drain.

Last minute update:

 

A problem, with a customer’s TB-130, has been plaguing all involved for the last month.  They shelled the boom/outrigger circuit pump.  This was a true pump failure; what we call “grenading itself.”

After cleaning the system and installing a new pump, the circuit would work for a short time, and then the pressure would drop off.  Pushing and releasing the clutch would bring the pressure back, and then it would drop off, again.  Compensators, inlet modules, WBV valves and a second pump were tried, without any change.  The customer even took parts off a working TB-110 and the problem remained.  Three of us, at Putzmeister, with over 100 years of combined experience were convinced it was a problem in the boom control valves.

In desperation, Alan went back to the schematic.  Something we had not considered jumped out at him; the contingency pump circuit.  This is the small electric motor and pump that allow the boom to be raised, so the cab can be tipped, if the engine won’t start.  It feeds the boom circuit through a check valve.  The check valve poppet had hammered itself out of shape and it was allowing circuit flow back through the small pump.

This reinforces: 1) the value of the schematic, 2) the K.I.S.S. theory and 3) the “I’ll bet it’s not the pump” statement.

Mar132013

Update on Telebelt Belt Circuit Adjustments

SETTING PRESSURES ON TELEBELT BELT CIRCUITS.

The main conveyors and feed conveyors of Telebelts are two separate hydraulic circuits.  Each has their own pumps, control valves and motors and they are hydraulically independent of each other.

The hydraulic pump capacities vary.  Different models have different pump sizes, depending on belt length.  In addition, Telebelts that have direct drive pumps (TBS) and automatic transmissions use pumps that have capacities that differ from manual transmission Mack counterparts.

This is about pressure setting, not capacity.  Capacity (flow) determines belt speed.  Pressure is the resistance to flow.  If the pressures are correct, the pumps should deliver the required flow.  Pressures are checked with pressure gauges, supplied with the machines when new.  Flow is measured with a flow meter, which is not supplied.

Again, flow determines speed.  A “working man’s” flow meter is a stopwatch.  Data sheets, provided with the machines show function speeds when the unit was in final test.  For example, a test sheet might show 65 seconds to slew the main boom 360 degrees to the right.  If you obtain the same results, with pressures properly set, you can be sure the circuit is still operating as new.

Some things that can affect speed are; low throttle setting, pump wear, motor wear and filter conditions.  You have the tools to check the pressures, so here we go.

Take all test readings from port M1A, for the main conveyor, and M2A for the feeder.  Ports M1B and M2B are load sense ports used by the factory.

There are two pressure settings for each pump.  They are the Low Pressure, a.k.a. “stand-by,” and high pressure.

 The illustration is a TB-110.  The TB-80 is controls mount the same way, but the TB-130 and TB-600 have the controls “laid down” so the volume control knobs face you.  As a result, the TB-130 and TB-600  M1A and M2A  ports face downward.

You will need the 60 bar and 400 gauges, supplied with the Telebelt, to check the pressure settings.  ALWAYS connect the 400 bar gauge first, since there could be more than 60 bar in the circuit of a belt that is not moving, depending how the belt cards are set.

Gauges can be connected when there is pressure on the circuit.  It is not necessary to disengage the PTO’s to connect the gauges.

Pressure adjustments can be made at idle, or just above.  It is not necessary to go to full RPM.

Compensator adjusting screws will have either a lock nut and Allen screw, or an acorn nut that, when removed, exposes a lock nut and Allen screw.  Release the lock nuts and turn the screws IN (clockwise) to increase pressure, or OUT (counter-clockwise) to decrease pressure.

On Mack Telebelts, the front pump on the driver’s side is the main belt pump.  The pump attached to it is the feeder belt pump.  On Telebelts with a transfer case (TOR, Sterling) as well as TBS units, the first pump is the main belt and the second is the feeder.

Setting low pressure, main belt:

  • Start the Telebelt and engage the PTO’s.

    Method 1: DO NOTreset the e-stop.  If the motor control valves are energized, false readings are possible if the belt card zero screws are set too high.  Open the load sense shut-off valve manual bypass.Alternate method:  Reset the e-stop, but disconnect the motor control valve connectors, pull the belt cards out, or remove the belt card fuses.  This will turn the load sense valves on, electrically.  Opening the bypass is not necessary.

    Either method will produce the same results; 1. Load sense shut-off open and 2. no power to belt control valves.

  • Connect 400 bar gauge to M1A and make sure pressure is below 60 bar.
  • Switch to the 60 bar gauge on M1A and read the pressure.  Compare this to the original reading on the test sheet in the front of the manual.  It will probably call for 20 bar.  If the correct pressure is not read, adjust the low pressure setting screw.
  • Remove the 60 bar gauge.

Setting high pressure, main belt:

In order to check high pressure, you have to cause the function to go to relief.  In other words, you have to stall the belt motors or block the flow to the motors.  You can cap the hoses to both motors, or reverse the lines to one of the motors, which cause them to turn against each other.  I prefer the latter.

  • Let the air pressure off the hydraulic tank (TB-105 and TB-110 only)
  • Reverse the hoses to one of the main belt motors.
  • Re-pressurize the hydraulic tank (TB-105 and TB-110 only)
  • Connect 400 bar gauge to M1A
  • Start the Telebelt and engage the PTO’s
  • Reset the e-stop
  • Turn the main conveyor on.
  • Gauge reading should be 280 bar.  Adjust as necessary.
  • Shut Telebelt off and de-pressurize the hydraulic tank (TB-105 and TB-110 only)
  • Return motor hoses to their original position
  • Re-pressurize the hydraulic tank (TB-105 and TB-110 only)
  • Remove 400 bar gauge

Setting low pressure, feeder belt:

 Use the same procedure as for the main, except test at M2A.

Setting high pressure, feeder belt:

Use the same procedure as for the main, except test at M2A.  To block flow in the circuit, cap the pressure line going into the feeder motor.  This is the line that DOES NOT have a “T” in line.

Current production pressure settings – November 2010

 Standby Pressure

Main conveyor pumps except TB(S)-130/600 = 20 bar,  TB(S)-130/600 = 25 bar

All feeder belt pumps = 20 bar

All boom/outrigger pumps = 22 bar

High Pressure

ALL PUMPS = 280 bar.

 

Nov272012

Placing Dirt With a Telebelt

Placing Dirt With a Telebelt

Placing dirt can be a problem. Depending on your area, you could be dealing with clumps, stumps and lumps, among other things.  Moisture content can also be your enemy.  Here are a few tricks.

If you are using the aluminum Front End Loader Hopper (part # A306000), try putting 2×4 blocks under the front pads. This will raise the discharge end of the hopper and expose more belt to take the dirt out and reduce “bridging.” You will have to tie the front of the hopper down to the rail, to keep the blocks from falling out.

This shows a Front End Loader Hopper with an electric vibrator (part # A309849) installed, powered from the accessory plug on the Telebelt.  The operator has also raised the back of the hopper to expose more belt.  Note the chain and binder in place of the rear pin.

Also note the feeder is set up with the legs down.  This is the best way to keep spillage from jamming the tail pulley. Some operators of the small loaders complain they can’t see in the hopper.  They’ll get over it.

The best hopper to use with large loaders is the 3-Yard Hopper (part # A300042).  When using this hopper, keep the bottom of the skirts even with the top of the concrete hopper.  Don’t lower the skirts into the hopper, as that blocks the flow.  When the lower hopper fills, flow will stop.

 

 

View at discharge:  The ideal setup is the 3-Yard Hopper feeding a Low Profile hopper (part # A306001).  The transfer opening is large enough, plus you are not beating the concrete hopper to death.

 

 

 

Side view of Low Profile Hopper under 3-Yard Hopper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

An optional hopper grate (part # A309979)  is available for the 3-Yard Hopper.  It is strong enough so loaders can break up clumps.

 

 

 

 

 

It’s hinged, on the front and has notched legs in the
rear to set the angle of the grate.

Nov162012

Putzmeister Boom Valve Coil Tips

I have a little more homework and Info for you guys.

Over the years we all have had issues with setting and adjusting the boom speeds, either to fast or to slow, the function can feel rough or jerky or even black and white. Some have tried to repeatedly adjust the boom speeds with the Teleteach buttons or battery to no good result. If you need to constantly teach the remote you generally have a remote issue, other than oil temp variance the settings should stay relatively the same, week to week.

But there is another option you can easily look at for these types of symptoms.

The joystick is communicating to the coil on the boom valve, the coils can wear out, as they draw more Amps the range of motion changes, thus the need to adjust from time to time.

The plunger spool’s that the coil’s drive can also get sticky or gummed up over time. The images below will show you how to remove and clean the spools, test the coils, and look for issues. The coils are the same from valve to valve, so they can be moved around. BUT BEWARE, on units equipped with EBC this is not advisable, the computer is set to work with the coil and valve matched, adjustments to the EBC programming might need to be reset if coils are changed or moved around.

The leading problem we have with Mother Boards on 24 V systems is over Amping the fuse. If an outrigger or Boom coil is bad it can draw high amps and blow the fuse.  DO NOT PUT IN A BIGGER FUSE, RUN THE FUNCTION MANUALY AND FIX THE ISSUE.

 Other issues that can give you problems with these spools and other components on the unit are cheap oil, dirty oil, water in the oil, and high “TAN” numbers. These all lead to corrosion and sticky components all over the unit. Phantom issues that come and go are usually related to the oil and its condition. Do oil sample testing to ensure the condition of your oil. Oil that has water in it looks milky ONLY after it has become saturated with to much water, clear oil in the sight gauge can still have to much water in it. The only way to know for sure is to have it tested.

 

I hope this helps and brings out even more questions, please feel free to ask online or call PM CSG at 1-800-890-0269, or myself at 360-600-5695, or reach me by email at woodsa@putzam.com.

 

As always, be safe and keep the rubber side down.

Travelteck

 


PICTURE 1:
Coils are located behind the Boom valves. All the coils on a unit are the same, they can be swapped if needed.

Example: the Coil for the Boom / Outrigger is having issues, the Coil from the B arm could be used to swap with the Boom / Outrigger to get through a job.

Units with EBC rely on adjustments to compensate for coil resistance. On unit’s equipped with EBC you can change coils but EBC might need to be readjusted for the new coil. Without EBC there would not be an issue, but swapping coils to diagnose is not recommended on functioning EBC units.

High resistance values or shorted coils are one of the leading killers of Motherboards, NEVER over amp a fuse to make a function work even if it is for a “short time”, the motherboard will become the next fuse. Remember, everything you turn on with an electrical switch can be run MANUALY.

Sep132012

Telebelt Belt Tracking Troubles? Wearing out your rollers?

A few questions recently came in from a customer concerning belt tracking and wearing out of rollers on their TBS 130. These issues and resolutions apply to all ”active feeder” model Telebelts - TB 80, TB 110, TB 130, TB 600, TBS 130 and TBS 600. Let’s go over their issues, and how to fix them.

Issue 1: On the feeder belt, there are 2 gangs of 3 roller sets,  and for some reason, we are having to change out 2 of the three sets every 2 weeks (the belt is wearing on the shafts that the rollers are on). We checked our other two belts and they are not having this issue.

Resolution: The feeder triple rollers are directional.  Each side roller is set at a slightly different angle. Make sure the end with the widest (lowest) offset faces the hinge.  In other words, the wide offsets face each other (see left).  If mounted in reverse, only the narrow set contacts the belt, and I can see the possibility of the belt being pulled down to the shaft, especially with this thinner type of belt. The photo looks like the belt flattens out, going left to right. If that is the case, the triple roller is in  backwards.

 

Issue 2: On the main belt, when you have the boom extended, the belt tracks with no problems (stays centered on the roller). When you retract the boom, upon getting to the last two sections, the belt tracks to one side of the roller and rides there until you extend it back  out. We checked the belt tension and its sitting at 1,200 psi.

Resolution: Don’t over-tension the belt. The manual calls for 1,500 – 1,800 psi on the feeder. I instruct operators to go to the low end; 1,500 psi. Training (belt alignment) of the pulleys, with the boom extended, is very difficult. In this position, the head pulley of one section is very close to the tail pulley of the next. A centered belt can mean the pulleys are working against each other, or adjustment is correct – There is no way of telling.

DO NOT ATTEMPT ADJUSTING A BELT, OR CLEANING OF ROLLERS AND PULLEYS, WHILE THE BELT IS MOVING. Shut the belt off and push the E-Stop to make the adjustments or do the cleaning.

Never train pulleys unless the belt tension is first confirmed. A loose belt wanders on the pulleys, and attempts to train it will not succeed. Again, I suggest 1,000 psi, which is the low end of the 1,000 – 1,200 specification for the main belt (the slightly reduced tension yields longer splice life). Train the pulleys with the boom retracted as far as possible. Telebelts use crowned (tapered) pulleys. They are self-training, since each half of the belt is trying to run off the end of the pulley. This allows us to go without side idlers, which we have no room for . When the belt gets loose, the side that contacts harder pills the belt to that side.  Again, tension the belt first. This will take care of training problems.

A properly tensions and trained belt will not go out of alignment. Training is usually only required if a pulley is replaced. Grout buildup on the pulleys can also cause alignment problems, so keep them clean.

Issue 3: After adjusting the tension in all of our belt, the belt tracks fine when you extend the boom past the first section (it stays centered on the rollers without any problems), but if we have the belt rolling without extending anything, the belt seems to run on the one side of the pulley. Also, when you bring the boom back in and reach the second section, it moves over.

Resolution: When extending and retracting with the belt stopped, the belt can wander on the pulleys, When running, it should stay centered. Extend arm 2 partially and check the adjustment of the heel of arm 2 and the head of arm 1. If they are ok, extend arm 2  enough to gain access to the heel pulleys of 3, 4, and 5 since they are still bundled together. Check them and then check the remaining head pulleys.

DO NOT attempt to train the 12″ main drive pulley with the large adjustment bolts. This is a straight pulley, not crowned. Adjustment is made on the 5″  roller at the heel of arm 1. If the belt is centered on it it will be centered on the drive pulley.

 

Jun012012

Belt(s) won’t run? I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

Belt(s) won’t run?  I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

 1 of 3 – Mechanical

This is the first of three articles about Telebelt belt-related problems.

From time to time, I get calls involving a belt that won’t run, or runs very slowly.  The call I like the least is, “My feeder (or main) belt quit running.  I replaced the pump, but it still won’t run.”

With over 800 Telebelts in the field, we are looking at more than 2,100 piston pumps.  We don’t hear of pump failures very often.  Even if we go back to the Super Swinger 105s, of the early 90s, many are still running original pumps.

So, again, I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

Rule # 1 – Check to see if it will run with manual control.  If it will, the problem is probably electrical or in the radio.  If not, it’s mechanical or hydraulic.

Things that stop belts: 

  • Mechanical problems
  • Electrical problems
  • Hydraulic problems
  • Truck or engine failure.  This is beyond the scope of this series.

Let’s deal with mechanical problems, since they are the easiest to spot.

Are the PTO shafts turning? 

  • Actually look at them.  I once spent an hour on the phone with an operator who has just moved and set back up and his belts wouldn’t work.  I finally got him to look under the rig, where he found a pump drive shaft lying on the ground.
  • Is the PTO engaged?  Snow and ice can jam a PTO linkage.  Pins can fall out.  Air lines can leak.  PTO shaft gears can strip.

Do the hoses jerk, like there is pressure?  Does the belt move a little?  Put a pressure gauge on the test port.  If there is 280 bar, and nothing is moving, look for:

  • A seized 5” pulley
  • A seized feeder drive pulley
  • Over-tensioned scraper – Yes, that can stall a belt.  It can also stall a belt that is heavily loaded.
  • Rocks packed at tail pulley (feeder) or drive pulley (main).
  • Rocks packed at the heel of the arm back from the tip section (arm 3 on a TB-105 or 110, arm 4 on a TB-130).  There is supposed to be a v-scraper there to guard the close clearance between the heel pulley and the steel end frame.
  • Feeder motor hoses kinked.  Active (hydraulic lift) feeder machines (TB130, 80 & 110) can do this if the feeder is slewed more than one time around.  On 105’s, feeder lines can get pinched in the transfer.  Also check 105 feeder line quick connects to make sure they have not backed out.
  • Is more torque required?  This is as much a hydraulic issue as mechanical.  Most Telebelt feeders operate just fine with 130cc motors.  Belts that are heavily loaded, paving for example, might require 160cc motor.

Do you think oil is flowing but there is not much pressure? 

  • Feeder – check for stripped drive pulley collet or broken motor shaft.
  • The Main has 2 motors that plug into splined adapters welded into the ends of the pulley shaft.  If the welds on an adaptor break, that motor will be free to spin.  You will hear oil going through the motor.  Operators have finished pours by capping the lines to the “bad” side motor, thus forcing the other motor to drive the pulley.
  • Check main motors for broken shafts.

Are the belts tight enough? 

  • Feeder belt pulleys are more likely to slip, especially if they are the old-style steel-lagged pulleys.  Maintain feeder tension at 1,500 to 1,800 PSI.
  • Once in a while, you will find a ready-mix driver that will wash what he spills.  If he gets the back side of a loose feeder belt wet, the drive pulley might slip. 
  • Main conveyor pulleys are less likely to slip, even if the belts are real loose.  Worn or missing drive pulley rubber lagging leaves a steel surface that will slip.  Maintain main belt tension at 1,000 to 1,200 PSI.
  • Keep lagging grooves, on main and feeder drives, free of grout buildup.

 

 

Jun012012

Test Lights and Bad Grounds

Test Lights and Bad Grounds

Test Light – A probe-type device that lights up, under certain circumstances.  Sold in automotive and other novelty stores, it is used to troubleshoot simple electrical circuits, and other witchcraft.

Test lights are great for troubleshooting tail light circuits on your boat trailer.  They have NO business inside a combi-box.  Telebelt combi-boxes have circuits carrying 24v, 12v, 5v, variable voltage and signal circuits that are read in milliamps.  You can complete circuits, and cause components to fry.  In other words, you can “let the smoke out.”

Basic Rule of Electricity #1 – Smoke makes all electrical things work.  Smoke makes computer chips work. Every time you let the smoke out of a computer chip, it stops working.  Electric motors have to be large to handle all that smoke. A lot of smoke leaks out when they quit working.

Use a multi-meter.  Get one that measures DC voltage, amperage and resistance.  You don’t have to spend hundreds of dollars for a top-of-the-line Fluke meter.  You can get one for less than $10, and it will do what you need.  Keep it in your combi-box.  It will live longer there.

Sooner or later, you might end up calling in with an electrical problem.  You should have a copy of your schematic and a meter.  You are our “eyes and hands” when we troubleshoot over the phone.  We’re not much help if you can’t furnish voltage readings for us.

Bad Grounds

Some of the most difficult calls we get are traced to bad grounds.

I recently had a call from an owner that could not get his TB-105 e-stop to reset.  After going through the steps to figure it out, I determined his e-stop relay was toast.  This was an older TB-105 with a negative Mack battery disconnect.  These were notorious for high resistance at the wire contacts of the Mack switch.  Electrical components that are not properly grounded, can fail.  E-stop relays were particularly sensitive.

I wanted him to check his ground, but he didn’t have a meter.  He did have a test light that lit when he touched the positive and negative terminals of the e-stop relay.  That really doesn’t tell me all I need to know. 

He went and got a $5 meter.  When he connected the meter to the positive and negative e-stop terminals, he read 13.8 volts, since the truck was running.  Then I had him connect the negative lead of the meter to a frame ground and touch the positive lead to the ground side of the e-stop relay.  He read 2.3 volts.  I had him touch the positive lead to the M12 screws (combi-box ground) and he still read 2.3 volts.  In both cases, he should have read zero.

The problem will be traced to the connections on the Mack disconnect switch.  NOTE:  When loosening or tightening nuts on the back side of the switch, use 2 wrenches.  There is a wrench flat at the base of the studs.  Use one wrench on those flats to keep the studs from turning and twisting the wires off internally.

Another way to check the ground is by resistance.  Set your meter to OHMS.  Checking between M12 and a frame ground should read nearly zero ohms.  There is resistance in the wire.  Some meters have a continuity tester in the ohms scale.  They should “beep” when checking this way.

Oh, and meters can check diodes, too.  This way we can help you find the smoked diode in the 25 AMP fan circuit that somebody put a 40 AMP fuse in.      

 

May262012

Q&A Session – Question 4: Whats wrong with after-market parts and solutions for my Telebelt?

Nothing, as long as they don’t affect the over-all performance of the machine or threaten other more expensive components. Take a look at the photo to the right of a drive pulley cover on a TB105 for example; it is strong and strongly mounted, so strong in fact that it has been responsible for stalling belts for the lucky and wrecking belts for the un-lucky! The intended and designed reason for a cover in this area is just to keep the hose bundle away from the drive pulley. The original solution was just a piece of steel tube bolted across the center and later ended being a piece of UHMW (plastic). The advantage of the plastic is that in the case of a rock or other object getting caught between the belt and the cover, the hundred dollar cover looses not the more expensive main belt. You can finish the day’s placing without the pulley cover but not without the belt! After loosing a main belt, ask your self how much does that cover cost and how nice does it look?

The last photo is of some of the items we at the Putzmeister Repair and Service Center have run across or removed while doing repairs. A single ply belt has never been factory installed on a production TB model of any kind. Why? Because they do not work! Obviously a customer bought what the belt guy was selling. We have never found a method of patching a belt that had any longevity. Any belt patch is a “stop gap” measure at best and neither one of these two even make that grade! Belt strength is rated in pounds per inch of width (P.I.W.). If you cut the belt all the way through the fabric anywhere you have reduced the P.I.W. of the belt. If you cut a big six inch “V” out of the eighteen inch belt, as in the lower sample, you have reduced the belts strength by at least a third. We are not even going to mention that the cut and the patch are within the profile of the scraper! Not only is the scraper blade in the photo just a piece of steel that is not even straight, it is also too long!

In closing, Putzmeister America understands. We know especially considering todays economic times, that rising costs and harder to find work make everyday maintenance and parts replacement a real concern for making ends meet. In an effort to show our understanding and keep us and our customer’s competitive, Putzmeister America’s Customer Support Group has just recently reduced Telebelt parts across the entire line by 15%! In addition, the competitive rates and flexible schedule of our Midwest Repair and Service Center further help you get quality parts with quality, experienced installation. So, next time you need repairs or parts on your Telebelt, please consider the “real” cost of what you are having installed. Both our reputations depend on the quality of those parts.

May262012

Q&A Session – Question 3: Why use Putzmeister rollers in my Telebelt?

Using the right rollers in the correct position is very important to the life of the belts and the over-all performance of the Telebelt. Once again, the location and design of our rollers are a product of years of experience and practical application. Building a “cheaper” roller is not always in the best interest of practical application.
This can be the case if roller design and fabrication cost savings end up producing a design that threatens the integrity and longevity of more costly components, such as belts. This can also be the case if new approach or design just does not perform as well. As an example, our hopper roller design prevents the belt from being “pulled” down between the roller and into the U-shank brackets when tensioning the belt (see images above and below).


Our roller caps are a simple and re-useable design that has worked rather well over many years. People have tried to substitute these caps with other designs without the same level of success, resulting in one-time-use and often missing roller caps (see left and below).

May262012

Q&A Session- Question 2: I am constantly approached by people selling belt, why should I use Putzmeister belting?

ANSWER:

Putzmeister belts have a long track record and proven history of performance. The material specifications and splice procedures are intended for concrete conveyors and the Telebelt application. These details have evolutionized over many years of trail, research, testing, design, and actual use and application. Other belts made with other materials have been tried and tested over those years, and none of the alternatives have ever measured up in longevity. The splice design and methods have changed many times over the years, and Putzmeister has updated the splice design as recently as a couple of years ago.

We have had long-time loyal customers try “bargain” priced belt and most or all of them have come back to using Putzmeister belting and splicing. We have tried everything from urethane belts to “poly” and “poly-blend” fabric belts. We have experimented with “cold splices” and countless variations of splice prep and have always come back to the vulcanized, step and bias splice presently used because of longevity as related to application.

Those of you that have also tried alternative belts and splice methods may have heard that our pulleys are too small. Our chosen belt and splice design takes in to account the size of the pulleys and the fact that we have an aggressive and effective scraper. The splice design reduces that amount of splice area that is going around a pulley or across the scraper. It is a good “rule of thumb” to remember when talking to a belt salesman that that is exactly what he is, a belt salesman. We are an equipment manufacturer that builds machines that use belts, and therefore have a vested interest in how that belt performs in our machine. Our reputation and that of our product depend on it! Some old time worn clichés may apply when shopping for belting;

  1. If it sounds too good to be true it probably is.
  2. Sometimes you do get what you pay for.
  3. And…..Buyer beware.

We realize that technology does change and our industry is no different. We are alert and open minded to product improvement if and when changing technology offers it. However, until any “better mouse-trap” has a field track record that can compare remotely to the forty years plus of design, testing and field application of our present belting and splice design and methods, we humbly recommend that our customers go with a known commodity when considering replacement belts for their Telebelt.