Putzmeister Tricks of the Trade

Setting Telebelt Feeder Lift Pressure Switches

Putzmeister America — Thu, 17 May 2012 14:50:12 +0000

Function: When the main conveyors are slewed, the brakes on both the feeder and the main release. If this happens with the feeder off the ground, the feeder will:
a) swing behind the main conveyor like a real long counterweight, or
b) take off downhill if the machine is not level.

The feeders are raised hydraulically, but they lower by gravity as the oil passes through an orifice. The feeders must be fully lowered for the mains to slew. It looks like you are “powering down,” but you’re just letting the cylinder and rails relax.

If there is enough pressure in the feeder elevate circuit, the (NC) pressure switches open and break the connection to the slewing valve. The WBV valve still goes to the “boom” side. One switch disables slew right and the other disables left, and they are both connected to the feeder lift line through a manifold block. No oil flows to release the brakes when the slewing valve doesn’t throw.

Symptoms: Main will not slew left, but slew right works, or vice-versa. It’s very rare for the main to not slew in either direction because of pressure switch adjustment, but it can happen if there is enough pressure on the system. All functions work manually. Cable remote makes no difference.

“Field Fix” (to complete a pour):

Make sure the feeder is down fully. All pressure must be off the feeder elevate cylinder.
After confirming feeder is firmly on the ground, try manual control. Make sure to move the WBV (selector valve) and the slewing valve. If it still doesn’t slew, the problem is not the pressure switch. If the main does slew, options are:
1. Operate slewing manually to finish the pour. Keep the feeder firmly on the ground while slewing the main.
2. Bypass the pressure switches by:
  1. Removing the plug connector from the top of one the switches. On a 110, it might be necessary to remove the fan shroud to do this. If the problem is unchanged, that is the correct plug. If it now won’t swing either way, replace that plug and remove the other one.
  2. Put a jumper wire between pin 1 and pin 2 of the plug. A piece of tie wire will do. Do not reconnect the plug, but tie it out of the way to keep it from shorting.
3. Alternate bypass – Jump X10-17 to X10-18 for right or X10-19 to X10-20 for left.
4. This is a temporary fix and permanent repairs MUST be made before taking the unit out again.
Procedure for Setting Telebelt Feeder Lift Pressure Switches

The feeder lift pressure switches are installed to prevent the main boom from slewing when the feeder is off the ground. This is a safety system. The switches are installed in the feeder elevate hydraulic circuit.

To set the switches, you need a continuity tester, 1/8” Allen wrench and a flat-head screwdriver.

Procedure:
1. Support machine with outriggers.
2. Unstow the feeder from the rest on top of the main boom and slew feeder to side of machine.
3. Lower empty feeder (NO HOPPER OR ATTACHEMENTS) until the feeder legs are 1 to 2 feet off the ground.
4. Turn off the remote. The truck engine can also be shut off.
5. Remove wire connection plugs from both switches.
6. Remove small brass screw adapters from both switches. These are the adapters that the plugs screw in to.
7. Connect a continuity tester to terminal #1 and #2 (terminals are labeled on switch and plug)
8. With 1/8” Allen wrench, turn the pressure adjustment screw in, (screws are located under the brass screw plug you removed), until you get continuity, then back screw out until you loose continuity. From this point, back the adjustment screw out ½ turn more, this is your final setting.
9. Repeat steps 8 on the other switch.
10. Reinstall the brass screw adapters and wire connection plugs.
11. Restart the engine, reset the remote and test the settings by lowering the feeder to the ground, then lift main boom out of the boom rest and slew main boom to the right and the left. The main boom should slew. Then raise the feeder off the ground and slew main boom right and left. The main boom should not move.

Telebelt Receiver Fuses

Putzmeister America — Thu, 10 May 2012 16:52:44 +0000

The e-stop circuit of Telebelts includes the HBC 735 radio receiver. Actually, the e-stop circuit supplies power to the radio receiver.

The images below, A370160 Pg 4 and Pg 5 show the circuit. To view at a larger size, click on each photo individually and they will open in a new window.

The 12V supply (red) goes through the e-stop stations to X81 pin 13. X-81 is located on the right-hand (hinge side) of the control cabinet. The power then goes through a fuse in the radio receiver and returns to X81 pin 5, and then through the e-stop stations to 4A17, the e-stop relay.

This image shows the pin locations on X81.

The image shows the inside of the 735 radio receiver. There are 4 fuses called out in the image, and their reference numbers correspond to the reference numbers in the image that follows.

They are:

42 = Power supply primary – 6.3A

43 = Power supply secondary – 1.0A

44 = Proportional output card – 12.5A

45 = E-Stop card – 4A

All of these fuses remove by pushing the end cap in slightly and rotating it to the left. When the cap releases, a spring pushes it out a little. The fuse will be attached to the cap. You might need a coin or flat blade screwdriver to remove the cap.

RULE #1 – The problem is NOT in the radio system

Symptoms of a problem:

E-stop will not reset and there are no LED’s lit on the receiver.

FUSE FAILURES IN THE RECEIVER ARE RARE. Make sure you check all the way through the e-stop circuit (SEE RULE #1). A blown 4F17 or a bad e-stop button causes the same symptoms.

If you have no power at pin X81-13, the problem is NOT in the receiver. If you have 12V at X81-13 and zero volts at X81-5, check fuses 42 and 43 in the receiver. Either one of these fuses, when blown, cause these symptoms.

Before replacing any fuses and turning power back on, find the short. Likely places are faulty e-stop buttons or their boxes, or cable shorts between X81 and the radio receiver. The 90’ cable can be substituted for troubleshooting purposes.

E-stop will not reset and there are LED’s lit on the receiver.

SEE RULE #1. There are many possibilities, including:

Remote switch problem. Verify with cable remote
See control box schematic:

Blown 3F64
4K69 or 3K275 bad or unseated – confirm by flashing 4A17-T33 to 4A17-T-34
4A17 connections bad
4A17 defective

Problem with receiver cable from X81 – use 90’ cable to confirm

If all else doesn’t correct the problem, check 4A fuse #45 on the e-stop card. If the receiver cover is off, you will see the “light show,” but attempts to reset will just cause relays on the card to click.

E-stop will reset and there are LED’s lit on the receiver. Only non-proportional functions (toggle switches) work, but moving joysticks only cause the WBV (Boom/Outrigger) selector valve to move. The actual function levers do not move.

RULE #1 might not apply. This is opposite from when the pilot valve relay is bad, or when you turn on the transmitter but don’t reset. In that case, the function levers move but the WBV valve does not. Just to be sure, use the cable remote to confirm the radio problem, then check the 12.5A fuse #44 on the proportional output card.

Before replacing any fuses and turning power back on, find the short. Likely places are faulty cables or plug connectors on MBC valve, or cable shorts between X81 and the radio receiver. The 90’ cable can be substituted for troubleshooting purposes.

Telebelt – Hose Bundle Wrap

Putzmeister America — Wed, 02 May 2012 17:49:33 +0000

FOR ALL “ACTIVE” FEEDERS: 130, 110, 80 and 600.

CAUTION:

Feeder hose bundle is short. This means it is already wrapped once around the feeder ring. When the operator goes to set up, he may tear the bundle off if he swings the feeder the wrong direction. The hoses need to be “unwound” by raising the transfer and rotating the feeder.
NOTE-

The feeder is bi-directional. You must watch the hose bundle to assure you are pushing it back out and not wrapping more inside. You might have to pull on the loop, if it has bound up and doesn’t move freely.

The hose loop should nearly touch the deck when in travel position.

Tele-Teaching Telebelt Radio Remotes

putzmeister — Thu, 05 Apr 2012 21:05:15 +0000

There are some differences between Putzmeister boom pump remotes and Telebelt remotes. Let’s look at them.

The early Telebelt radio functions were programmed via Tele-Teach battery, using buttons on the side of the receiver. The newer “Ergonic” (single joystick) Telebelt remote controls are set up a little differently.

The Ergonic radio transmitters have no Tele-Teach buttons. They are programmed with a Tele-Teach battery. They are also different in that you Tele-Teach rabbit ONLY. Do not Tele-teach snail, with the battery. The minimums you set, in “rabbit,” will be the minimums used by “snail.”

NOTE: Any Tele-Teach battery will work. The older (yellow) Tele-Teach batteries have a lower amp/hour rating than the new (red) ones, and don’t last as long. If you are using a yellow battery, make sure it is fully charged. Use your standard battery for set-up, and then switch to the Tele-Teach battery for programming.

The procedure:

Properly set the Telebelt on outriggers. Raise the feeder and transfer and set the feeder on the ground. Raise the boom out of the transport rest, high enough to clear mufflers and inlets. Allow room for boom movement in all directions.
Turn the radio off and insert the Tele-Teach battery.
Hold the “+” AND “-” buttons in while turning the radio on. The green transmit light will be blinking twice as fast.

Each function, e.g. slew right, has to be set for minimum and maximum. Only one function can be set at a time. It is necessary to be able to see the Modular Boom Control (MBC) valve while programming. So, let’s set “slew right” on the rabbit side.

Reset the e-stop with the horn-reset/outrigger switch.
Set throttle up to max
Set boom speed switch to “rabbit.”
While watching the WBV (selector) valve, move the joystick to the right
When the WBV moves to the boom position, stop moving the joystick farther and hold that position.
After a slight delay, the boom should start creeping to the right. If it moves too quickly, use slight taps on the minus (“-“) button to slow it down. If there is no movement, use slight taps on the plus (+) button.
Release the stick, then move it back to the start position to check the setting. Very often the slight taps will take you too far.
When you are satisfied with the start point, slowly move the stick to full right, while watching the slewing valve. The slewing valve must contact its mechanical stop AT THE SAME TIME you reach full right on the stick.

If it hits too soon, you have a narrow adjustment window in the stick, and the boom will be jerky.
If it doesn’t hit at all, you will not get full speed

While holding the stick full right, adjust valve handle travel with the plus and minus buttons. PAY ATTENTION TO BOOM POSITION. If you are getting close to something, like the feeder, slew left and start again.
After setting the maximum, recheck the minimum setting.
Repeat for the remaining 5 functions.
Turn the radio off. The settings will be retained by the transmitter memory.
Remove the Tele-Teach battery and replace it with the regular battery.

NOTE: Telebelts manufactured after early 2011 have “teachable” feeders. Set the horn-reset/outrigger switch to outrigger and use the battery to Tele-Teach feeder slewing and elevate in “rabbit” mode, ONLY. User-defined mode and “snail” mode have no effect on those speeds.

Now, before you stow the outriggers, let’s set slew right in the “snail” position:

Turn the radio on and reset the e-stop.
Switch the boom speed control to “snail.”
Move the stick to the right until the WBV valve engages. The “creep” speed will be the same as it was in “rabbit.” DO NOT attempt to Tele-Teach this minimum. That will change the rabbit setting as well. Center the stick.
To set the maximum speed for snail slew right
- Move the boom speed switch up to the user-defined position and hold it there. It’s spring-loaded.
- Move the joystick right until the desired maximum speed is reached and hold the stick at that position.
- Release the boom speed switch
- Center the joystick. Now, even if you move the joystick all the way right, the boom will only slew to the maximum you set with user-defined.
- If you want to change the maximum, just repeat the procedure.
- Repeat for the other functions.

Telebelt Ergonic Radio

Tele-Teach Battery

BOOM PUMP: Proximity Switches

putzmeister — Wed, 14 Apr 2010 16:24:57 +0000

Your Putzmeister boom pump uses proximity switches (aka prox switch) to cycle the pump. Some quick tips to keep them from being a misunderstood part on your pump.

What might go wrong?

Prox switches are screwed directly in to the drive cylinders and are subject to high pressure hydraulic oil. It is common to over tighten them, they take 14 foot pounds of torque which is a relatively low torque. Because they are in the pump hydraulic cylinder subject to high pressure oil they are quite often over torqued, this distorts the switch and it will fail early or not work correctly. The prox switches have a high pressure seal to handle the pressure subjected to them.

Next prox switches are grounded through the cable not the cylinder, so to test the system you can take a new switch, plug it in, touch it to metal and it will trigger. The switch works from magnetic principle, the piston is steel and the switch is triggered by this steel piston passing under it.

PMA Prox Switch Testing

Deciphering the Light and Wires

On top of the plug you will see two LEDs one is green and one is yellow, The green one indicates that power is getting to the switch, the yellow one is the trigger signal that indicates the piston is under the switch sending a signal to the relay.

The prox switch wires go back to the distribution box, this box combines the signal to send it to the stroke change relay, LEDs are located at this box to tell you if they are working, you might have four or six switches on the standard units.

We encourage you to watch the lights when you are cycling the unit to clean the water box. You should see the yellow LEDs flash when the piston is passing under the switch; you have two switches at each position. They are working together as a backup which means if one fails you are still pumping.

PMA Prox Switch LED Lights

Ways Prox Switches Fail

Switches can generally fail two ways, the yellow LED does not turn on when the piston passes under it, this is the most common failure. They can also fail by being stuck on. The yellow LED will be on even though the piston is not under the switch. In the first case no action is necessary, but if the switch is stuck on it will need to be disconnected from the system as it will interfere with the cycling of the relay. Simply unplug the one that is failed on, and resume pumping.

We all know that if it can go wrong it most likely will, this is the reason for the redundant-style system. However, quite often due to lack of maintenance or lack of understanding one switch will fail, then at some point the other switch will fail and now you have a problem. So familiarize yourself with the system and check it frequently so you can avoid being down due to prox switch failure.

The pictures show a model used in the Putzmeister Service School class room to demonstrate the switches and the cylinder position, as well as, testing a switch not installed on a unit.

BOOM PUMP: Having E-Stop Issues? Simple Things to Check.

putzmeister — Thu, 25 Mar 2010 20:31:43 +0000

This relates to standard 12V units as well as early European 24V units.

Every component in your Control (aka Combi) Box should be labeled; age and changing parts without putting a sticker on the new part can lead to problems. In the image the decal shows 10A17, yours might say 6A17.

Deciphering the Number

The first number, 10 or 6, is the page number of the schematic that you will find this component on. All components in the Combi box work this way; for example, 6F76 is the fuse for e-stop on page 6. The page number of the schematic varies with the options a unit has, or the amount of revisions to a particular unit. We can go into revisions later.

The letter, A, is the code for the part, A= Assembly, F=Fuse, S=switch, K=relay. Notice a German unit’s code letters are the same as English.

The second number, 17, is the assigned number for the device. Notice 10A17 and 6A17 are the same part just different pages in the schematic.

So You Are Having Issues With The E-Stop? A Quick Test Will Reveal Why.

Look at top left and find Terminal A1 (+), also in the lower right find A2 (-), putting a voltage tester at these 2 points will tell you if you have voltage. We NEED to use a voltage tester not a test light to see how much voltage we have here. Note: The red locking paint might need to be cleaned a little at the screw to get a good test.

For this relay to reset and hold you need to maintain 12 VDC, these 2 pins are powering a coil that is rated for 12 VDC. If you hit an E-stop button on the unit or turn off the remote, the voltage disappears and the relay unlocks, the 2 green lights go out and nothing works. So if you have no voltage here check the E-Stop buttons on your remote and if the local/remote switch is in the center position. A quick test for checking the remote is to set the local/remote switch to local and check for voltage. If the E-Stop resets and you have 12(+- 2 VDC), you have a remote issue, try your hard wire remote.

As previously, mentioned, always test with a voltage tester not a light, also test using the A2 (-) pin for ground, this is the ground the relay is using, If the wire from A2 to ground is bad the relay won’t set either. A quick check for this is: positive lead on A1, negative lead on A2 and look at the result, then move the negative lead to main ground in the Combi Box and look at the result. No or low voltage at A1 and A2, and 13.6 at A1 and the main ground point tells you that your problem is a bad ground from A2 to the main ground, follow that part of the circuit.

Voltage Drop

Most of the time the issue is voltage drop. I get a comment like “I get the E-stop to clear and start pumping then I hit 2 or 3 boom functions and it goes back into E-stop. If I do one function at a time it stays on.” To avoid this or find the issue you need to test for voltage drop at A1. You can do this with the boom closed just don’t put the transmission in gear; have someone assist you with the remote, make sure the engine is running, PTO ON, not in gear on the transmission, this way you can activate the electrical components and not bend boom arms. That’s a different Tricks of the Trade post.

Check for the voltage at A1 then clear the E-stop by honking the horn, turn on the pump and see the voltage drop a little, next hit A arm, it dropped a little more didn’t it,“ then B, then slewing, then tip. Each function you activate is more draw on the circuit and at some point the E-stop relay will drop out. Not from a bad E-stop button but from voltage drop.

The problem is current flow. Look for loose or corroded wires in the E-stop switches or in the cable powering the remote receiver. Open the boxes and look at the wires, are they loose? Give them a little yank did it pull out of the terminal or sleeve? One common source for resistance issues is corrosion in the cable due to washing the pump with acid. Acid loves concrete, copper and chrome, it is not recommended to use acid to wash pumps. I have seen it turn the wires green as far as 3 feet inside the plastic coating, a major source for voltage drop. Poor grounds for the Combi Box and poor power from the truck are also big issues as the unit ages.

Take the time to do this easy test, if your voltage drops you can dig a little deeper to locate the problem and avoid future issues by resolving the problem now.

Do Not Bypass E-Stop.

This is also the time to mention that bypassing the E-Stop is a serious problem, if the power is not at the A1 pin then even if bypassed the remote won’t work. This is due to the fact that the remote is being powered with this same circuit. So bypassing is not the best way out of problems it presents major safety issues and most likely won’t get you up and running on the remote.

As mentioned in the beginning, this is the basic start to troubleshooting the 12V Combi Box. If you have a 24 V ZMSK box the E-stop circuit is a little different, contact the Service Dept (800-890-0269), e-mail me (woodsa@putzam.com) or comment on this post and we can go deeper into the particulars.

Happy Holidays from Putzmeister

putzmeister — Mon, 07 Dec 2009 15:30:06 +0000

Telebelt Belt Card Adjustments

putzmeister — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 21:52:39 +0000

Putzmeister Telebelts give the operator the means to adjust the speeds of the main and feeder conveyors. When adjustments are made to the belt speed knobs (potentiometers), a variable signal (4 to 10 mA) is sent to the 14A20 amplifiers. Depending on the input signal, these amplifiers supply 0 to 10 volts to the belt on/off relays, then to the 14A24 proportional amplifiers, known as belt cards.

The belt cards supply voltage to the motor control valves 14B36. Feedback sensors on the motor control valves report valve position back to the belt cards.

Note: Older Telebelts have the belt circuits on schematic page 10. The components are 10Axx, instead of 14Axx.

All of the components in the belt card circuits operate on 24 volts. The 12/24 converter is on the inside of the cabinet door. The belt cards are protected by 24v fuses. All 24v conductors are purple.

There are two completely separate circuits (refer to A370160K, pages 6 and 14 shown here):

Main belt: A43.1, 14A20.1, 6K360, 14A24.1, 14B36.1

Feeder belt: A43.2, 14A20.2, 6K361, 14A24.2, 14B36.2

Older TB-105’s using schematic A383009 have the same components on pages 6 and 10. The component numbers are 10A20.1,2, 10A24.1,2 and 10B36.1,2

The belt cards have indicator LED’s and adjustment screws as shown.

Belt card adjustment may be required for component wear or replacement. If the belt cards were swapped for troubleshooting, and not put back where they came from, adjustments could be off.

ADJUSTING CARD SETTINGS

The following outlines the adjustment of the four adjustable values of the belt cards. All values INCREASE by turning CLOCKWISE.

Ramp Adjustments

“Ramp Up” controls the time it takes the belt to accelerate to its set speed, and “Ramp Down” controls the time it takes the belt to decelerate to a stop. Adjustment is from 0 –5 seconds. Care must be taken if adjustment is made, since it is possible to have the feeder in a ramp cycle while the main is not running.

Factory setting:

1. Decrease all ramp screws (counterclockwise) to zero

2. Set ramp down on both cards to two full turns open (clockwise)

3. Set main ramp up to four full turns open (clockwise)

4.Set feeder ramp up to six full turns open (clockwise)

To be sure which way to turn the screws, remove a card and look at the adjustable resistor connected to the screws. Turn the screws counterclockwise so the sliding “slugs” in the resistors move to the end away from the black face plate of the card. There are no stops, so there is no way to turn too far. This is the zero point in step 1.

Max

The gain “MAX” screw adjusts the gain of the belt speed knobs. To check these adjustments, time the belts while running them at full speed with the manual by-pass. Next, run the belts with the remote to see if the same speed is reached. If the belt is slower, increasing the gain will speed the belt up.

STOP increasing the setting when the belt doesn’t go any faster. You can determine this by timing the belt, or just go by the sound of the belt. Turning the gain screw up too far narrows the adjustment “window” on the belt speed knobs. Therefore, if you have a belt that doesn’t run until “3” or “4,” and full speed is reached at “6” or “7,” set the knob at “10” and decrease the gain setting until the belt starts to slow down. This will open the “window” back up.

Zero

The zero screw calibrates the position of the feedback sensor. Whenever the e-stop circuit is reset, the LED’s on the belt motor controllers will be on. The ZERO setting positions the valves so that the belts are not running.

If the ZERO is too high, the belts can “creep” or run slowly when the belt switches are off. Pushing an e-stop will stop the belts. With the e-stop reset, adjust by turning the ZERO screw counterclockwise toward “-“, 1/8 turn at a time, until the belt stops.

If the ZERO is too low, a speed setting of “2” or “3” might be required to get the belt to move. Increase the ZERO setting until the belt just starts, then back off until it stops again. Subsequent adjustments might be necessary, due to change in resistance from the rollers, scrapers or skirts.

Telebelt Low Clearance Applications

putzmeister — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 13:44:58 +0000

Step-by-Step Instructions for Setting Pressures on Your Main and Feeder Belt Circuits.

putzmeister — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 20:36:45 +0000

Pressure settings are made using the hydraulic pump compensators.

This is to help clarify the instructions in your operator’s manuals. Adjustments are made at the points shown here. (Click on image to show larger.)

MAIN BELT High Pressure:

In order to check high pressure, you have to cause the function to go to relief. In other words, you have to stall the belt motors or block the flow to the motors. To do this you can cap the hoses to both motors, or reverse the lines to one of the motors. This will cause them to turn against each other.

1. Let the air pressure off the hydraulic tank (TB 105 and TB 110 only).

2. Reverse the hoses to one of the main belt motors.

3. Re-pressurize the hydraulic tank (TB 105 and TB 110 only).

4. Connect 400 bar gauge to port M1A.

5. Start your Telebelt and engage the PTOs.

6. Reset the e-stop.

7. Turn the main conveyor on.

8. Gauge reading should be 280 bar. Adjust as necessary.

9. Shut off the Telebelt and de-pressurize the hydraulic tank (TB 105 and TB 110 only).

10. Return motor hoses to their original position.

11. Re-pressurize the hydraulic tank (TB 105 and TB 110 only).

12. Remove 400 bar gauge.

13. Main belt high pressure is now set.

MAIN BELT Low Pressure:

1. Start your Telebelt and engage the PTOs. DO NOT reset the e-stop.

2. Connect 400 bar gauge to port M1A and make sure pressure is below 60 bar.

3. Switch to the 60 bar gauge on port M1A and read the pressure. Compare this to the original reading on the test sheet in the front of the operator’s manual. It will probably call for 20 bar. If the correct pressure is not read, adjust the low pressure setting screw.

4. Remove the 60 bar gauge.

5. Main belt low pressure is now set.

FEEDER BELT High Pressure:

For setting high pressure on the feeder belt, use the same procedure as for the main belt, except testing at port M2A. To block flow in the circuit, cap the pressure line going into the feeder motor.

FEEDER BELT Low Pressure:

For setting low pressure on the feeder belt, use the same procedure as listed for the main belt, except testing at port M2A.