Sep132012

Telebelt Belt Tracking Troubles? Wearing out your rollers?

A few questions recently came in from a customer concerning belt tracking and wearing out of rollers on their TBS 130. These issues and resolutions apply to all ”active feeder” model Telebelts - TB 80, TB 110, TB 130, TB 600, TBS 130 and TBS 600. Let’s go over their issues, and how to fix them.

Issue 1: On the feeder belt, there are 2 gangs of 3 roller sets,  and for some reason, we are having to change out 2 of the three sets every 2 weeks (the belt is wearing on the shafts that the rollers are on). We checked our other two belts and they are not having this issue.

Resolution: The feeder triple rollers are directional.  Each side roller is set at a slightly different angle. Make sure the end with the widest (lowest) offset faces the hinge.  In other words, the wide offsets face each other (see left).  If mounted in reverse, only the narrow set contacts the belt, and I can see the possibility of the belt being pulled down to the shaft, especially with this thinner type of belt. The photo looks like the belt flattens out, going left to right. If that is the case, the triple roller is in  backwards.

 

Issue 2: On the main belt, when you have the boom extended, the belt tracks with no problems (stays centered on the roller). When you retract the boom, upon getting to the last two sections, the belt tracks to one side of the roller and rides there until you extend it back  out. We checked the belt tension and its sitting at 1,200 psi.

Resolution: Don’t over-tension the belt. The manual calls for 1,500 – 1,800 psi on the feeder. I instruct operators to go to the low end; 1,500 psi. Training (belt alignment) of the pulleys, with the boom extended, is very difficult. In this position, the head pulley of one section is very close to the tail pulley of the next. A centered belt can mean the pulleys are working against each other, or adjustment is correct – There is no way of telling.

DO NOT ATTEMPT ADJUSTING A BELT, OR CLEANING OF ROLLERS AND PULLEYS, WHILE THE BELT IS MOVING. Shut the belt off and push the E-Stop to make the adjustments or do the cleaning.

Never train pulleys unless the belt tension is first confirmed. A loose belt wanders on the pulleys, and attempts to train it will not succeed. Again, I suggest 1,000 psi, which is the low end of the 1,000 – 1,200 specification for the main belt (the slightly reduced tension yields longer splice life). Train the pulleys with the boom retracted as far as possible. Telebelts use crowned (tapered) pulleys. They are self-training, since each half of the belt is trying to run off the end of the pulley. This allows us to go without side idlers, which we have no room for . When the belt gets loose, the side that contacts harder pills the belt to that side.  Again, tension the belt first. This will take care of training problems.

A properly tensions and trained belt will not go out of alignment. Training is usually only required if a pulley is replaced. Grout buildup on the pulleys can also cause alignment problems, so keep them clean.

Issue 3: After adjusting the tension in all of our belt, the belt tracks fine when you extend the boom past the first section (it stays centered on the rollers without any problems), but if we have the belt rolling without extending anything, the belt seems to run on the one side of the pulley. Also, when you bring the boom back in and reach the second section, it moves over.

Resolution: When extending and retracting with the belt stopped, the belt can wander on the pulleys, When running, it should stay centered. Extend arm 2 partially and check the adjustment of the heel of arm 2 and the head of arm 1. If they are ok, extend arm 2  enough to gain access to the heel pulleys of 3, 4, and 5 since they are still bundled together. Check them and then check the remaining head pulleys.

DO NOT attempt to train the 12″ main drive pulley with the large adjustment bolts. This is a straight pulley, not crowned. Adjustment is made on the 5″  roller at the heel of arm 1. If the belt is centered on it it will be centered on the drive pulley.

 

Jun012012

Belt(s) won’t run? I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

Belt(s) won’t run?  I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

 1 of 3 – Mechanical

This is the first of three articles about Telebelt belt-related problems.

From time to time, I get calls involving a belt that won’t run, or runs very slowly.  The call I like the least is, “My feeder (or main) belt quit running.  I replaced the pump, but it still won’t run.”

With over 800 Telebelts in the field, we are looking at more than 2,100 piston pumps.  We don’t hear of pump failures very often.  Even if we go back to the Super Swinger 105s, of the early 90s, many are still running original pumps.

So, again, I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

Rule # 1 – Check to see if it will run with manual control.  If it will, the problem is probably electrical or in the radio.  If not, it’s mechanical or hydraulic.

Things that stop belts: 

  • Mechanical problems
  • Electrical problems
  • Hydraulic problems
  • Truck or engine failure.  This is beyond the scope of this series.

Let’s deal with mechanical problems, since they are the easiest to spot.

Are the PTO shafts turning? 

  • Actually look at them.  I once spent an hour on the phone with an operator who has just moved and set back up and his belts wouldn’t work.  I finally got him to look under the rig, where he found a pump drive shaft lying on the ground.
  • Is the PTO engaged?  Snow and ice can jam a PTO linkage.  Pins can fall out.  Air lines can leak.  PTO shaft gears can strip.

Do the hoses jerk, like there is pressure?  Does the belt move a little?  Put a pressure gauge on the test port.  If there is 280 bar, and nothing is moving, look for:

  • A seized 5” pulley
  • A seized feeder drive pulley
  • Over-tensioned scraper – Yes, that can stall a belt.  It can also stall a belt that is heavily loaded.
  • Rocks packed at tail pulley (feeder) or drive pulley (main).
  • Rocks packed at the heel of the arm back from the tip section (arm 3 on a TB-105 or 110, arm 4 on a TB-130).  There is supposed to be a v-scraper there to guard the close clearance between the heel pulley and the steel end frame.
  • Feeder motor hoses kinked.  Active (hydraulic lift) feeder machines (TB130, 80 & 110) can do this if the feeder is slewed more than one time around.  On 105’s, feeder lines can get pinched in the transfer.  Also check 105 feeder line quick connects to make sure they have not backed out.
  • Is more torque required?  This is as much a hydraulic issue as mechanical.  Most Telebelt feeders operate just fine with 130cc motors.  Belts that are heavily loaded, paving for example, might require 160cc motor.

Do you think oil is flowing but there is not much pressure? 

  • Feeder – check for stripped drive pulley collet or broken motor shaft.
  • The Main has 2 motors that plug into splined adapters welded into the ends of the pulley shaft.  If the welds on an adaptor break, that motor will be free to spin.  You will hear oil going through the motor.  Operators have finished pours by capping the lines to the “bad” side motor, thus forcing the other motor to drive the pulley.
  • Check main motors for broken shafts.

Are the belts tight enough? 

  • Feeder belt pulleys are more likely to slip, especially if they are the old-style steel-lagged pulleys.  Maintain feeder tension at 1,500 to 1,800 PSI.
  • Once in a while, you will find a ready-mix driver that will wash what he spills.  If he gets the back side of a loose feeder belt wet, the drive pulley might slip. 
  • Main conveyor pulleys are less likely to slip, even if the belts are real loose.  Worn or missing drive pulley rubber lagging leaves a steel surface that will slip.  Maintain main belt tension at 1,000 to 1,200 PSI.
  • Keep lagging grooves, on main and feeder drives, free of grout buildup.

 

 

Jun012012

Test Lights and Bad Grounds

Test Lights and Bad Grounds

Test Light – A probe-type device that lights up, under certain circumstances.  Sold in automotive and other novelty stores, it is used to troubleshoot simple electrical circuits, and other witchcraft.

Test lights are great for troubleshooting tail light circuits on your boat trailer.  They have NO business inside a combi-box.  Telebelt combi-boxes have circuits carrying 24v, 12v, 5v, variable voltage and signal circuits that are read in milliamps.  You can complete circuits, and cause components to fry.  In other words, you can “let the smoke out.”

Basic Rule of Electricity #1 – Smoke makes all electrical things work.  Smoke makes computer chips work. Every time you let the smoke out of a computer chip, it stops working.  Electric motors have to be large to handle all that smoke. A lot of smoke leaks out when they quit working.

Use a multi-meter.  Get one that measures DC voltage, amperage and resistance.  You don’t have to spend hundreds of dollars for a top-of-the-line Fluke meter.  You can get one for less than $10, and it will do what you need.  Keep it in your combi-box.  It will live longer there.

Sooner or later, you might end up calling in with an electrical problem.  You should have a copy of your schematic and a meter.  You are our “eyes and hands” when we troubleshoot over the phone.  We’re not much help if you can’t furnish voltage readings for us.

Bad Grounds

Some of the most difficult calls we get are traced to bad grounds.

I recently had a call from an owner that could not get his TB-105 e-stop to reset.  After going through the steps to figure it out, I determined his e-stop relay was toast.  This was an older TB-105 with a negative Mack battery disconnect.  These were notorious for high resistance at the wire contacts of the Mack switch.  Electrical components that are not properly grounded, can fail.  E-stop relays were particularly sensitive.

I wanted him to check his ground, but he didn’t have a meter.  He did have a test light that lit when he touched the positive and negative terminals of the e-stop relay.  That really doesn’t tell me all I need to know. 

He went and got a $5 meter.  When he connected the meter to the positive and negative e-stop terminals, he read 13.8 volts, since the truck was running.  Then I had him connect the negative lead of the meter to a frame ground and touch the positive lead to the ground side of the e-stop relay.  He read 2.3 volts.  I had him touch the positive lead to the M12 screws (combi-box ground) and he still read 2.3 volts.  In both cases, he should have read zero.

The problem will be traced to the connections on the Mack disconnect switch.  NOTE:  When loosening or tightening nuts on the back side of the switch, use 2 wrenches.  There is a wrench flat at the base of the studs.  Use one wrench on those flats to keep the studs from turning and twisting the wires off internally.

Another way to check the ground is by resistance.  Set your meter to OHMS.  Checking between M12 and a frame ground should read nearly zero ohms.  There is resistance in the wire.  Some meters have a continuity tester in the ohms scale.  They should “beep” when checking this way.

Oh, and meters can check diodes, too.  This way we can help you find the smoked diode in the 25 AMP fan circuit that somebody put a 40 AMP fuse in.      

 

May262012

Q&A Session – Question 4: Whats wrong with after-market parts and solutions for my Telebelt?

Nothing, as long as they don’t affect the over-all performance of the machine or threaten other more expensive components. Take a look at the photo to the right of a drive pulley cover on a TB105 for example; it is strong and strongly mounted, so strong in fact that it has been responsible for stalling belts for the lucky and wrecking belts for the un-lucky! The intended and designed reason for a cover in this area is just to keep the hose bundle away from the drive pulley. The original solution was just a piece of steel tube bolted across the center and later ended being a piece of UHMW (plastic). The advantage of the plastic is that in the case of a rock or other object getting caught between the belt and the cover, the hundred dollar cover looses not the more expensive main belt. You can finish the day’s placing without the pulley cover but not without the belt! After loosing a main belt, ask your self how much does that cover cost and how nice does it look?

The last photo is of some of the items we at the Putzmeister Repair and Service Center have run across or removed while doing repairs. A single ply belt has never been factory installed on a production TB model of any kind. Why? Because they do not work! Obviously a customer bought what the belt guy was selling. We have never found a method of patching a belt that had any longevity. Any belt patch is a “stop gap” measure at best and neither one of these two even make that grade! Belt strength is rated in pounds per inch of width (P.I.W.). If you cut the belt all the way through the fabric anywhere you have reduced the P.I.W. of the belt. If you cut a big six inch “V” out of the eighteen inch belt, as in the lower sample, you have reduced the belts strength by at least a third. We are not even going to mention that the cut and the patch are within the profile of the scraper! Not only is the scraper blade in the photo just a piece of steel that is not even straight, it is also too long!

In closing, Putzmeister America understands. We know especially considering todays economic times, that rising costs and harder to find work make everyday maintenance and parts replacement a real concern for making ends meet. In an effort to show our understanding and keep us and our customer’s competitive, Putzmeister America’s Customer Support Group has just recently reduced Telebelt parts across the entire line by 15%! In addition, the competitive rates and flexible schedule of our Midwest Repair and Service Center further help you get quality parts with quality, experienced installation. So, next time you need repairs or parts on your Telebelt, please consider the “real” cost of what you are having installed. Both our reputations depend on the quality of those parts.

May262012

Q&A Session – Question 3: Why use Putzmeister rollers in my Telebelt?

Using the right rollers in the correct position is very important to the life of the belts and the over-all performance of the Telebelt. Once again, the location and design of our rollers are a product of years of experience and practical application. Building a “cheaper” roller is not always in the best interest of practical application.
This can be the case if roller design and fabrication cost savings end up producing a design that threatens the integrity and longevity of more costly components, such as belts. This can also be the case if new approach or design just does not perform as well. As an example, our hopper roller design prevents the belt from being “pulled” down between the roller and into the U-shank brackets when tensioning the belt (see images above and below).


Our roller caps are a simple and re-useable design that has worked rather well over many years. People have tried to substitute these caps with other designs without the same level of success, resulting in one-time-use and often missing roller caps (see left and below).

May262012

Q&A Session- Question 2: I am constantly approached by people selling belt, why should I use Putzmeister belting?

ANSWER:

Putzmeister belts have a long track record and proven history of performance. The material specifications and splice procedures are intended for concrete conveyors and the Telebelt application. These details have evolutionized over many years of trail, research, testing, design, and actual use and application. Other belts made with other materials have been tried and tested over those years, and none of the alternatives have ever measured up in longevity. The splice design and methods have changed many times over the years, and Putzmeister has updated the splice design as recently as a couple of years ago.

We have had long-time loyal customers try “bargain” priced belt and most or all of them have come back to using Putzmeister belting and splicing. We have tried everything from urethane belts to “poly” and “poly-blend” fabric belts. We have experimented with “cold splices” and countless variations of splice prep and have always come back to the vulcanized, step and bias splice presently used because of longevity as related to application.

Those of you that have also tried alternative belts and splice methods may have heard that our pulleys are too small. Our chosen belt and splice design takes in to account the size of the pulleys and the fact that we have an aggressive and effective scraper. The splice design reduces that amount of splice area that is going around a pulley or across the scraper. It is a good “rule of thumb” to remember when talking to a belt salesman that that is exactly what he is, a belt salesman. We are an equipment manufacturer that builds machines that use belts, and therefore have a vested interest in how that belt performs in our machine. Our reputation and that of our product depend on it! Some old time worn clichés may apply when shopping for belting;

  1. If it sounds too good to be true it probably is.
  2. Sometimes you do get what you pay for.
  3. And…..Buyer beware.

We realize that technology does change and our industry is no different. We are alert and open minded to product improvement if and when changing technology offers it. However, until any “better mouse-trap” has a field track record that can compare remotely to the forty years plus of design, testing and field application of our present belting and splice design and methods, we humbly recommend that our customers go with a known commodity when considering replacement belts for their Telebelt.

May262012

Q&A Session- Question 1: Why are there 16″ scraper blades on an 18″ belt?

ANSWER:

Telebelts are equipped with “crowned” pulleys. Slightly tapered pulleys allow for easier adjustment when training or tracking of the belt. This is especially true on faster moving belts such as those used to place concrete. This feature is even more important for the purposes of belt training when the conveyor is telescopic, multi-section as is the Telebelt. Trust me, flat pulleys were tried in the very early design and training the belt throughout the telescope range was impossible! Even when only half the pulleys were flat it was still an impossible task to track the belt.

When a tensioned belt wraps around a tapered pulley it leaves that pulley with its edges opposite the pulley taper. That is to say the belt comes off the pulley in a crescent shape, with edges of the belt somewhat lower than the center (see diagram 1, left). For this reason, using a scraper as wide as the belt wears out the edges of the belt pre-maturely.

Getting proper surface tension between the blade and the belt also becomes more difficult because the force being used to pull the scraper against the belt has to deflect the edge of the belt that much more before adding any appreciable force in the middle or center (once again see diagram 1). This problem becomes worse the further behind the pulley the scraper is mounted. This is because you now have to deflect the tensioned belt in both directions, width and length, before significantly effecting the tension of the blade against the surface of the belt (see diagram 2, below, – upper right-hand corner).

You may have read in some of our past literature words like belt “flutter” and scraper “bounce”. These are also symptoms of the scraper being too far behind the pulley. A mistimed or an unlucky scraper bounce can catch a rock and render the scraper useless, or worse wreck a belt! A “fluttering” belt will not run clean. In all cases, an 18” blade on an 18” belt makes every condition or symptom worse!

When you hear customers saying things like; “I just can’t get that thing to run clean no matter how much I tension the scraper!” or “My scraper springs are stretching and I have run out of adjustment on the scraper chains or T-handles!”, the main two causes are scraper blades that are too wide and scrapers that are too far behind the pulley.

Besides these problems, you have to ask why do you want to clean the belt out that wide anyway? The tunnels, even on a machine set up for high volume placing, will only expose a max of 12” or 14” of belt, and most are set up with only about 9” to 11” of belt exposed. The material leaves these transfer skirts on a “V” shaped belt and the material profile on the belt doesn’t reach to those outside edges of the belt. If the concrete is so liquid that the material profile within that the normal “V” shape or in the discharge transition area reaches the edges of the belt, more than likely the belt is running too slow or there is too much belt exposed between the skirts or both. The bottom-line is that on a machine that is properly set up and run, there is nothing out on the last inch of belt on both sides to clean!

The only historical leg to stand on in defense of same width blades and belts is that the earliest Telebelt model I mentioned earlier ran 16” blades with a 16” belt. There are couple reasons for this. Firstly, that machine ran 4” pulleys and they just were not as aggressively tapered, lessening the severity of the systems described above. Second, and the most reality based reason, is that the manufacture just never got around to making a 14” scraper blade (assigning a whole new part number, etc). Every other concrete conveyor built used the ‘2” narrower than belt width scraper blade’, up to and past 48” belts. So, the only machine that ever used same width scrapers did so because the manufacture just never got around to making a 14” blade with some of its components allowing it to get away with that oversight. That doesn’t make it correct!

May172012

Setting Telebelt Feeder Lift Pressure Switches

Function:  When the main conveyors are slewed, the brakes on both the feeder and the main release.  If this happens with the feeder off the ground, the feeder will:
a) swing behind the main conveyor like a real long counterweight, or
b) take off downhill if the machine is not level.

The feeders are raised hydraulically, but they lower by gravity as the oil passes through an orifice.  The feeders must be fully lowered for the mains to slew.  It looks like you are “powering down,” but you’re just letting the cylinder and rails relax.

If there is enough pressure in the feeder elevate circuit, the (NC) pressure switches open and break the connection to the slewing valve.  The WBV valve still goes to the “boom” side.  One switch disables slew right and the other disables left, and they are both connected to the feeder lift line through a manifold block.  No oil flows to release the brakes when the slewing valve doesn’t throw.

Symptoms:  Main will not slew left, but slew right works, or vice-versa.  It’s very rare for the main to not slew in either direction because of pressure switch adjustment, but it can happen if there is enough pressure on the system.  All functions work manually.  Cable remote makes no difference.

 “Field Fix” (to complete a pour):

  1. Make sure the feeder is down fully.  All pressure must be off the feeder elevate cylinder.
  2. After confirming feeder is firmly on the ground, try manual control.  Make sure to move the WBV (selector valve) andthe slewing valve.  If it still doesn’t slew, the problem is not the pressure switch.  If the main does slew, options are:
    1. Operate slewing manually to finish the pour.  Keep the feeder firmly on the ground while slewing the main.
    2. Bypass the pressure switches by:
      1. Removing the plug connector from the top of one the switches.  On a 110, it might be necessary to remove the fan shroud to do this.  If the problem is unchanged, that is the correct plug.  If it now won’t swing either way, replace that plug and remove the other one.
      2. Put a jumper wire between pin 1 and pin 2 of the plug.  A piece of tie wire will do.  Do not reconnect the plug, but tie it out of the way to keep it from shorting.
    3. Alternate bypass – Jump X10-17 to X10-18 for right or X10-19 to X10-20 for left.
    4. This is a temporary fix and permanent repairs MUST be made before taking the unit out again. 

     

    Procedure for Setting Telebelt Feeder Lift Pressure Switches

    NOTE: THIS PROCEDURE CAN ONLY BE PERFORMED WHEN THE SWITCH IS INSTALLED IN THE CIRCUIT. THESE ILLUSTRATIONS ARE MERELY FOR SHOWING THE SWITCH.

    The feeder lift pressure switches are installed to prevent the main boom from slewing when the feeder is off the ground.  This is a safety system.  The switches are installed in the feeder elevate hydraulic circuit.

    To set the switches, you need a continuity tester, 1/8” Allen wrench and a flat-head screwdriver.

    Procedure:

      1. Support machine with outriggers.
      2. Unstow the feeder from the rest on top of the main boom and slew feeder to side of machine.
      3. Lower empty feeder (NO HOPPER OR ATTACHEMENTS) until the feeder legs are 1 to 2 feet off the ground.
      4. Turn off the remote.  The truck engine can also be shut off.
      5. Remove wire connection plugs from both switches.
      6. Remove small brass screw adapters from both switches.  These are the adapters that the plugs screw in to. 

      1. Connect a continuity tester to terminal #1 and #2 (terminals are labeled on switch and plug)

      1. With 1/8” Allen wrench, turn the pressure adjustment screw in, (screws are located under the brass screw plug you removed), until you get continuity, then back screw out until you loose continuity.  From this point, back the adjustment screw out ½ turn more, this is your final setting.

    1. Repeat steps 8 on the other switch.
    2. Reinstall the brass screw adapters and wire connection plugs.
    3. Restart the engine, reset the remote and test the settings by lowering the feeder to the ground, then lift main boom out of the boom rest and slew main boom to the right and the left.  The main boom should slew.  Then raise the feeder off the ground and slew main boom right and left.  The main boom should not move.
May102012

Telebelt Receiver Fuses

The e-stop circuit of Telebelts includes the HBC 735 radio receiver.  Actually, the e-stop circuit supplies power to the radio receiver. 

The images below, A370160 Pg 4 and Pg 5 show the circuit. To view at a larger size, click on each photo individually and they will open in a new window.

The 12V supply (red) goes through the e-stop stations to X81 pin 13.  X-81 is located on the right-hand (hinge side) of the control cabinet.  The power then goes through a fuse in the radio receiver and returns to X81 pin 5, and then through the e-stop stations to 4A17, the e-stop relay. 

 

 

 

This image shows the pin locations on X81.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The image shows the inside of the 735 radio receiver.  There are 4 fuses called out in the image, and their reference numbers correspond to the reference numbers in the image that follows.

 

They are:

42 = Power supply primary – 6.3A

43 = Power supply secondary – 1.0A

44 = Proportional output card – 12.5A

45 = E-Stop card – 4A

 

 

All of these fuses remove by pushing the end cap in slightly and rotating it to the left.  When the cap releases, a spring pushes it out a little.  The fuse will be attached to the cap.  You might need a coin or flat blade screwdriver to remove the cap.

 

RULE #1 – The problem is NOT in the radio system

 

Symptoms of a problem:  

 

E-stop will not reset and there are no LED’s lit on the receiver.

 

FUSE FAILURES IN THE RECEIVER ARE RARE.  Make sure you check all the way through the e-stop circuit (SEE RULE #1).  A blown 4F17 or a bad e-stop button causes the same symptoms.

 

If you have no power at pin X81-13, the problem is NOT in the receiver.  If you have 12V at X81-13 and zero volts at X81-5, check fuses 42 and 43 in the receiver.  Either one of these fuses, when blown, cause these symptoms.

 

Before replacing any fuses and turning power back on, find the short.  Likely places are faulty e-stop buttons or their boxes, or cable shorts between X81 and the radio receiver.  The 90’ cable can be substituted for troubleshooting purposes.

 

E-stop will not reset and there are LED’s lit on the receiver.

 

SEE RULE #1.  There are many possibilities, including:

  • Remote switch problem.  Verify with cable remote
  • See control box schematic:
    • Blown 3F64
    • 4K69 or 3K275 bad or unseated – confirm by flashing 4A17-T33 to 4A17-T-34
    • 4A17 connections bad
    • 4A17 defective
  • Problem with receiver cable from X81 – use 90’ cable to confirm

 

If all else doesn’t correct the problem, check 4A fuse #45 on the e-stop card.  If the receiver cover is off, you will see the “light show,” but attempts to reset will just cause relays on the card to click.

 

E-stop will reset and there are LED’s lit on the receiver.  Only non-proportional functions (toggle switches) work, but moving joysticks only cause the WBV (Boom/Outrigger) selector valve to move.  The actual function levers do not move.

 

RULE #1 might not apply.  This is opposite from when the pilot valve relay is bad, or when you turn on the transmitter but don’t reset.  In that case, the function levers move but the WBV valve does not.   Just to be sure, use the cable remote to confirm the radio problem, then check the 12.5A fuse #44 on the proportional output card.

 

Before replacing any fuses and turning power back on, find the short.  Likely places are faulty cables or plug connectors on MBC valve, or cable shorts between X81 and the radio receiver.  The 90’ cable can be substituted for troubleshooting purposes.

May022012

Telebelt – Hose Bundle Wrap


FOR ALL “ACTIVE” FEEDERS: 130, 110, 80 and 600.

 

CAUTION:

Feeder hose bundle is short.  This means it is already wrapped once around the feeder ring.  When the operator goes to set up, he may tear the bundle off if he swings the feeder the wrong direction.  The hoses need to be “unwound” by raising the transfer and rotating the feeder.
NOTE-

The feeder is bi-directional.  You must watch the hose bundle to assure you are pushing it back out and not wrapping more inside.  You might have to pull on the loop, if it has bound up and doesn’t move freely.

 

The hose loop should nearly touch the deck when in travel position.