How to Use Backup Controls

Understanding the functions on the manual backup valve bank.

Valve Bank: Most common with Gen 3 or Monochrome Screen, can also be Gen 4.


Stroke manually:

Short Oval Knob Handle: strokes drive cylinders. Push or pull handle and hold for the duration of one stroke. Truck must be above 1200 rpm.

Tall Ball Knob Handle: shifts S-valve. Push or Pull and release. Holding in position is not required.


Blue: Accumulator dump valve, manual operation button.

Red: S-valve cycle valve, electric coils driven by CCU, manual palm buttons on each end of valve.

Green: Accumulator pressure relief “Backup” 250 bar (3,625 psi)



Manual Valve Bank: Gen 4 Model3

Green: Drive cylinder stroke valve. Push or pull and hold in position for the full duration of one stroke.

Red: Accumulator dump valve manual override.

Blue: S-Valve cycle valve.

Hard/Soft Shift for S-Valve


Hard-Shift: In-line (shown)

Soft-Shift: Closed at 90°

Accumulator Bottle:

5Accumulator Bottle: 4 Liters



WP Water Pump Pressure: 190 bar (2,755 psi)

RW Auger Pressure: 160 bar (2,320 psi)

Manual Auger and Water Pump Valve Block: Applies to Both Generation 3 and 4


Green: Manual valve for water pump

Blue: Manual auger forward valve

Red: Manual auger reverse valve


Green: Manual valve for water pump

Blue: Manual auger forward valve

Red: Manual auger reverse valve

To operate auger reverse, both the Red and Blue coils or valves must be engaged.

Putzmeister Boom Valve Coil Tips

I have a little more homework and Info for you guys.

Over the years we all have had issues with setting and adjusting the boom speeds, either to fast or to slow, the function can feel rough or jerky or even black and white. Some have tried to repeatedly adjust the boom speeds with the Teleteach buttons or battery to no good result. If you need to constantly teach the remote you generally have a remote issue, other than oil temp variance the settings should stay relatively the same, week to week.

But there is another option you can easily look at for these types of symptoms.

The joystick is communicating to the coil on the boom valve, the coils can wear out, as they draw more Amps the range of motion changes, thus the need to adjust from time to time.

The plunger spool’s that the coil’s drive can also get sticky or gummed up over time. The images below will show you how to remove and clean the spools, test the coils, and look for issues. The coils are the same from valve to valve, so they can be moved around. BUT BEWARE, on units equipped with EBC this is not advisable, the computer is set to work with the coil and valve matched, adjustments to the EBC programming might need to be reset if coils are changed or moved around.

The leading problem we have with Mother Boards on 24 V systems is over Amping the fuse. If an outrigger or Boom coil is bad it can draw high amps and blow the fuse.  DO NOT PUT IN A BIGGER FUSE, RUN THE FUNCTION MANUALY AND FIX THE ISSUE.

 Other issues that can give you problems with these spools and other components on the unit are cheap oil, dirty oil, water in the oil, and high “TAN” numbers. These all lead to corrosion and sticky components all over the unit. Phantom issues that come and go are usually related to the oil and its condition. Do oil sample testing to ensure the condition of your oil. Oil that has water in it looks milky ONLY after it has become saturated with to much water, clear oil in the sight gauge can still have to much water in it. The only way to know for sure is to have it tested.


I hope this helps and brings out even more questions, please feel free to ask online or call PM CSG at 1-800-890-0269, or myself at 360-600-5695, or reach me by email at


As always, be safe and keep the rubber side down.



Coils are located behind the Boom valves. All the coils on a unit are the same, they can be swapped if needed.

Example: the Coil for the Boom / Outrigger is having issues, the Coil from the B arm could be used to swap with the Boom / Outrigger to get through a job.

Units with EBC rely on adjustments to compensate for coil resistance. On unit’s equipped with EBC you can change coils but EBC might need to be readjusted for the new coil. Without EBC there would not be an issue, but swapping coils to diagnose is not recommended on functioning EBC units.

High resistance values or shorted coils are one of the leading killers of Motherboards, NEVER over amp a fuse to make a function work even if it is for a “short time”, the motherboard will become the next fuse. Remember, everything you turn on with an electrical switch can be run MANUALY.

BOOM PUMP: Having E-Stop Issues? Simple Things to Check.

This relates to standard 12V units as well as early European 24V units.

Every component in your Control (aka Combi) Box should be labeled; age and changing parts without putting a sticker on the new part can lead to problems. In the image the decal shows 10A17, yours might say 6A17.


Deciphering the Number

The first number, 10 or 6, is the page number of the schematic that you will find this component on. All components in the Combi box work this way; for example, 6F76 is the fuse for e-stop on page 6. The page number of the schematic varies with the options a unit has, or the amount of revisions to a particular unit. We can go into revisions later.

The letter, A, is the code for the part, A= Assembly, F=Fuse, S=switch, K=relay. Notice a German unit’s code letters are the same as English.

The second number, 17, is the assigned number for the device. Notice 10A17 and 6A17 are the same part just different pages in the schematic.

So You Are Having Issues With The E-Stop? A Quick Test Will Reveal Why.

Look at top left and find Terminal A1 (+), also in the lower right find A2 (-), putting a voltage tester at these 2 points will tell you if you have voltage. We NEED to use a voltage tester not a test light to see how much voltage we have here. Note: The red locking paint might need to be cleaned a little at the screw to get a good test.

For this relay to reset and hold you need to maintain 12 VDC, these 2 pins are powering a coil that is rated for 12 VDC. If you hit an E-stop button on the unit or turn off the remote, the voltage disappears and the relay unlocks, the 2 green lights go out and nothing works. So if you have no voltage here check the E-Stop buttons on your remote and if the local/remote switch is in the center position. A quick test for checking the remote is to set the local/remote switch to local and check for voltage. If the E-Stop resets and you have 12(+- 2 VDC), you have a remote issue, try your hard wire remote.

As previously, mentioned, always test with a voltage tester not a light, also test using the A2 (-) pin for ground, this is the ground the relay is using, If the wire from A2 to ground is bad the relay won’t set either. A quick check for this is: positive lead on A1, negative lead on A2 and look at the result, then move the negative lead to main ground in the Combi Box and look at the result. No or low voltage at A1 and A2, and 13.6 at A1 and the main ground point tells you that your problem is a bad ground from A2 to the main ground, follow that part of the circuit.

Voltage Drop

Most of the time the issue is voltage drop. I get a comment like “I get the E-stop to clear and start pumping then I hit 2 or 3 boom functions and it goes back into E-stop. If I do one function at a time it stays on.”  To avoid this or find the issue you need to test for voltage drop at A1. You can do this with the boom closed just don’t put the transmission in gear; have someone assist you with the remote, make sure the engine is running, PTO ON, not in gear on the transmission, this way you can activate the electrical components and not bend boom arms. That’s a different Tricks of the Trade post.

Check for the voltage at A1 then clear the E-stop by honking the horn, turn on the pump and see the voltage drop a little, next hit A arm, it dropped a little more didn’t it,“ then B, then slewing, then tip. Each function you activate is more draw on the circuit and at some point the E-stop relay will drop out. Not from a bad E-stop button but from voltage drop.

The problem is current flow. Look for loose or corroded wires in the E-stop switches or in the cable powering the remote receiver. Open the boxes and look at the wires, are they loose? Give them a little yank did it pull out of the terminal or sleeve? One common source for resistance issues is corrosion in the cable due to washing the pump with acid. Acid loves concrete, copper and chrome, it is not recommended to use acid to wash pumps. I have seen it turn the wires green as far as 3 feet inside the plastic coating, a major source for voltage drop. Poor grounds for the Combi Box and poor power from the truck are also big issues as the unit ages.

Take the time to do this easy test, if your voltage drops you can dig a little deeper to locate the problem and avoid future issues by resolving the problem now.

Do  Not Bypass E-Stop.

This is also the time to mention that bypassing the E-Stop is a serious problem, if the power is not at the A1 pin then even if bypassed the remote won’t work. This is due to the fact that the remote is being powered with this same circuit. So bypassing is not the best way out of problems it presents major safety issues and most likely won’t get you up and running on the remote.

As mentioned in the beginning, this is the basic start to troubleshooting the 12V Combi Box. If you have a 24 V ZMSK box the E-stop circuit is a little different, contact the Service Dept (800-890-0269), e-mail me ( or comment on this post and we can go deeper into the particulars.

Happy Holidays from Putzmeister