Update on Telebelt Belt Circuit Adjustments

SETTING PRESSURES ON TELEBELT BELT CIRCUITS.

The main conveyors and feed conveyors of Telebelts are two separate hydraulic circuits.  Each has their own pumps, control valves and motors and they are hydraulically independent of each other.

The hydraulic pump capacities vary.  Different models have different pump sizes, depending on belt length.  In addition, Telebelts that have direct drive pumps (TBS) and automatic transmissions use pumps that have capacities that differ from manual transmission Mack counterparts.

This is about pressure setting, not capacity.  Capacity (flow) determines belt speed.  Pressure is the resistance to flow.  If the pressures are correct, the pumps should deliver the required flow.  Pressures are checked with pressure gauges, supplied with the machines when new.  Flow is measured with a flow meter, which is not supplied.

Again, flow determines speed.  A “working man’s” flow meter is a stopwatch.  Data sheets, provided with the machines show function speeds when the unit was in final test.  For example, a test sheet might show 65 seconds to slew the main boom 360 degrees to the right.  If you obtain the same results, with pressures properly set, you can be sure the circuit is still operating as new.

Some things that can affect speed are; low throttle setting, pump wear, motor wear and filter conditions.  You have the tools to check the pressures, so here we go.

Take all test readings from port M1A, for the main conveyor, and M2A for the feeder.  Ports M1B and M2B are load sense ports used by the factory.

There are two pressure settings for each pump.  They are the Low Pressure, a.k.a. “stand-by,” and high pressure.

 The illustration is a TB-110.  The TB-80 is controls mount the same way, but the TB-130 and TB-600 have the controls “laid down” so the volume control knobs face you.  As a result, the TB-130 and TB-600  M1A and M2A  ports face downward.

You will need the 60 bar and 400 gauges, supplied with the Telebelt, to check the pressure settings.  ALWAYS connect the 400 bar gauge first, since there could be more than 60 bar in the circuit of a belt that is not moving, depending how the belt cards are set.

Gauges can be connected when there is pressure on the circuit.  It is not necessary to disengage the PTO’s to connect the gauges.

Pressure adjustments can be made at idle, or just above.  It is not necessary to go to full RPM.

Compensator adjusting screws will have either a lock nut and Allen screw, or an acorn nut that, when removed, exposes a lock nut and Allen screw.  Release the lock nuts and turn the screws IN (clockwise) to increase pressure, or OUT (counter-clockwise) to decrease pressure.

On Mack Telebelts, the front pump on the driver’s side is the main belt pump.  The pump attached to it is the feeder belt pump.  On Telebelts with a transfer case (TOR, Sterling) as well as TBS units, the first pump is the main belt and the second is the feeder.

Setting low pressure, main belt:

  • Start the Telebelt and engage the PTO’s.

    Method 1: DO NOTreset the e-stop.  If the motor control valves are energized, false readings are possible if the belt card zero screws are set too high.  Open the load sense shut-off valve manual bypass.Alternate method:  Reset the e-stop, but disconnect the motor control valve connectors, pull the belt cards out, or remove the belt card fuses.  This will turn the load sense valves on, electrically.  Opening the bypass is not necessary.

    Either method will produce the same results; 1. Load sense shut-off open and 2. no power to belt control valves.

  • Connect 400 bar gauge to M1A and make sure pressure is below 60 bar.
  • Switch to the 60 bar gauge on M1A and read the pressure.  Compare this to the original reading on the test sheet in the front of the manual.  It will probably call for 20 bar.  If the correct pressure is not read, adjust the low pressure setting screw.
  • Remove the 60 bar gauge.

Setting high pressure, main belt:

In order to check high pressure, you have to cause the function to go to relief.  In other words, you have to stall the belt motors or block the flow to the motors.  You can cap the hoses to both motors, or reverse the lines to one of the motors, which cause them to turn against each other.  I prefer the latter.

  • Let the air pressure off the hydraulic tank (TB-105 and TB-110 only)
  • Reverse the hoses to one of the main belt motors.
  • Re-pressurize the hydraulic tank (TB-105 and TB-110 only)
  • Connect 400 bar gauge to M1A
  • Start the Telebelt and engage the PTO’s
  • Reset the e-stop
  • Turn the main conveyor on.
  • Gauge reading should be 280 bar.  Adjust as necessary.
  • Shut Telebelt off and de-pressurize the hydraulic tank (TB-105 and TB-110 only)
  • Return motor hoses to their original position
  • Re-pressurize the hydraulic tank (TB-105 and TB-110 only)
  • Remove 400 bar gauge

Setting low pressure, feeder belt:

 Use the same procedure as for the main, except test at M2A.

Setting high pressure, feeder belt:

Use the same procedure as for the main, except test at M2A.  To block flow in the circuit, cap the pressure line going into the feeder motor.  This is the line that DOES NOT have a “T” in line.

Current production pressure settings – November 2010

 Standby Pressure

Main conveyor pumps except TB(S)-130/600 = 20 bar,  TB(S)-130/600 = 25 bar

All feeder belt pumps = 20 bar

All boom/outrigger pumps = 22 bar

High Pressure

ALL PUMPS = 280 bar.

 

Telebelt Belt Tracking Troubles? Wearing out your rollers?

A few questions recently came in from a customer concerning belt tracking and wearing out of rollers on their TBS 130. These issues and resolutions apply to all ”active feeder” model Telebelts - TB 80, TB 110, TB 130, TB 600, TBS 130 and TBS 600. Let’s go over their issues, and how to fix them.

Issue 1: On the feeder belt, there are 2 gangs of 3 roller sets,  and for some reason, we are having to change out 2 of the three sets every 2 weeks (the belt is wearing on the shafts that the rollers are on). We checked our other two belts and they are not having this issue.

Resolution: The feeder triple rollers are directional.  Each side roller is set at a slightly different angle. Make sure the end with the widest (lowest) offset faces the hinge.  In other words, the wide offsets face each other (see left).  If mounted in reverse, only the narrow set contacts the belt, and I can see the possibility of the belt being pulled down to the shaft, especially with this thinner type of belt. The photo looks like the belt flattens out, going left to right. If that is the case, the triple roller is in  backwards.

 

Issue 2: On the main belt, when you have the boom extended, the belt tracks with no problems (stays centered on the roller). When you retract the boom, upon getting to the last two sections, the belt tracks to one side of the roller and rides there until you extend it back  out. We checked the belt tension and its sitting at 1,200 psi.

Resolution: Don’t over-tension the belt. The manual calls for 1,500 – 1,800 psi on the feeder. I instruct operators to go to the low end; 1,500 psi. Training (belt alignment) of the pulleys, with the boom extended, is very difficult. In this position, the head pulley of one section is very close to the tail pulley of the next. A centered belt can mean the pulleys are working against each other, or adjustment is correct – There is no way of telling.

DO NOT ATTEMPT ADJUSTING A BELT, OR CLEANING OF ROLLERS AND PULLEYS, WHILE THE BELT IS MOVING. Shut the belt off and push the E-Stop to make the adjustments or do the cleaning.

Never train pulleys unless the belt tension is first confirmed. A loose belt wanders on the pulleys, and attempts to train it will not succeed. Again, I suggest 1,000 psi, which is the low end of the 1,000 – 1,200 specification for the main belt (the slightly reduced tension yields longer splice life). Train the pulleys with the boom retracted as far as possible. Telebelts use crowned (tapered) pulleys. They are self-training, since each half of the belt is trying to run off the end of the pulley. This allows us to go without side idlers, which we have no room for . When the belt gets loose, the side that contacts harder pills the belt to that side.  Again, tension the belt first. This will take care of training problems.

A properly tensions and trained belt will not go out of alignment. Training is usually only required if a pulley is replaced. Grout buildup on the pulleys can also cause alignment problems, so keep them clean.

Issue 3: After adjusting the tension in all of our belt, the belt tracks fine when you extend the boom past the first section (it stays centered on the rollers without any problems), but if we have the belt rolling without extending anything, the belt seems to run on the one side of the pulley. Also, when you bring the boom back in and reach the second section, it moves over.

Resolution: When extending and retracting with the belt stopped, the belt can wander on the pulleys, When running, it should stay centered. Extend arm 2 partially and check the adjustment of the heel of arm 2 and the head of arm 1. If they are ok, extend arm 2  enough to gain access to the heel pulleys of 3, 4, and 5 since they are still bundled together. Check them and then check the remaining head pulleys.

DO NOT attempt to train the 12″ main drive pulley with the large adjustment bolts. This is a straight pulley, not crowned. Adjustment is made on the 5″  roller at the heel of arm 1. If the belt is centered on it it will be centered on the drive pulley.

 

Belt(s) won’t run? I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

Belt(s) won’t run?  I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

 1 of 3 – Mechanical

This is the first of three articles about Telebelt belt-related problems.

From time to time, I get calls involving a belt that won’t run, or runs very slowly.  The call I like the least is, “My feeder (or main) belt quit running.  I replaced the pump, but it still won’t run.”

With over 800 Telebelts in the field, we are looking at more than 2,100 piston pumps.  We don’t hear of pump failures very often.  Even if we go back to the Super Swinger 105s, of the early 90s, many are still running original pumps.

So, again, I’ll bet it’s not the pump.

Rule # 1 – Check to see if it will run with manual control.  If it will, the problem is probably electrical or in the radio.  If not, it’s mechanical or hydraulic.

Things that stop belts: 

  • Mechanical problems
  • Electrical problems
  • Hydraulic problems
  • Truck or engine failure.  This is beyond the scope of this series.

Let’s deal with mechanical problems, since they are the easiest to spot.

Are the PTO shafts turning? 

  • Actually look at them.  I once spent an hour on the phone with an operator who has just moved and set back up and his belts wouldn’t work.  I finally got him to look under the rig, where he found a pump drive shaft lying on the ground.
  • Is the PTO engaged?  Snow and ice can jam a PTO linkage.  Pins can fall out.  Air lines can leak.  PTO shaft gears can strip.

Do the hoses jerk, like there is pressure?  Does the belt move a little?  Put a pressure gauge on the test port.  If there is 280 bar, and nothing is moving, look for:

  • A seized 5” pulley
  • A seized feeder drive pulley
  • Over-tensioned scraper – Yes, that can stall a belt.  It can also stall a belt that is heavily loaded.
  • Rocks packed at tail pulley (feeder) or drive pulley (main).
  • Rocks packed at the heel of the arm back from the tip section (arm 3 on a TB-105 or 110, arm 4 on a TB-130).  There is supposed to be a v-scraper there to guard the close clearance between the heel pulley and the steel end frame.
  • Feeder motor hoses kinked.  Active (hydraulic lift) feeder machines (TB130, 80 & 110) can do this if the feeder is slewed more than one time around.  On 105’s, feeder lines can get pinched in the transfer.  Also check 105 feeder line quick connects to make sure they have not backed out.
  • Is more torque required?  This is as much a hydraulic issue as mechanical.  Most Telebelt feeders operate just fine with 130cc motors.  Belts that are heavily loaded, paving for example, might require 160cc motor.

Do you think oil is flowing but there is not much pressure? 

  • Feeder – check for stripped drive pulley collet or broken motor shaft.
  • The Main has 2 motors that plug into splined adapters welded into the ends of the pulley shaft.  If the welds on an adaptor break, that motor will be free to spin.  You will hear oil going through the motor.  Operators have finished pours by capping the lines to the “bad” side motor, thus forcing the other motor to drive the pulley.
  • Check main motors for broken shafts.

Are the belts tight enough? 

  • Feeder belt pulleys are more likely to slip, especially if they are the old-style steel-lagged pulleys.  Maintain feeder tension at 1,500 to 1,800 PSI.
  • Once in a while, you will find a ready-mix driver that will wash what he spills.  If he gets the back side of a loose feeder belt wet, the drive pulley might slip. 
  • Main conveyor pulleys are less likely to slip, even if the belts are real loose.  Worn or missing drive pulley rubber lagging leaves a steel surface that will slip.  Maintain main belt tension at 1,000 to 1,200 PSI.
  • Keep lagging grooves, on main and feeder drives, free of grout buildup.

 

 

Test Lights and Bad Grounds

Test Lights and Bad Grounds

Test Light – A probe-type device that lights up, under certain circumstances.  Sold in automotive and other novelty stores, it is used to troubleshoot simple electrical circuits, and other witchcraft.

Test lights are great for troubleshooting tail light circuits on your boat trailer.  They have NO business inside a combi-box.  Telebelt combi-boxes have circuits carrying 24v, 12v, 5v, variable voltage and signal circuits that are read in milliamps.  You can complete circuits, and cause components to fry.  In other words, you can “let the smoke out.”

Basic Rule of Electricity #1 – Smoke makes all electrical things work.  Smoke makes computer chips work. Every time you let the smoke out of a computer chip, it stops working.  Electric motors have to be large to handle all that smoke. A lot of smoke leaks out when they quit working.

Use a multi-meter.  Get one that measures DC voltage, amperage and resistance.  You don’t have to spend hundreds of dollars for a top-of-the-line Fluke meter.  You can get one for less than $10, and it will do what you need.  Keep it in your combi-box.  It will live longer there.

Sooner or later, you might end up calling in with an electrical problem.  You should have a copy of your schematic and a meter.  You are our “eyes and hands” when we troubleshoot over the phone.  We’re not much help if you can’t furnish voltage readings for us.

Bad Grounds

Some of the most difficult calls we get are traced to bad grounds.

I recently had a call from an owner that could not get his TB-105 e-stop to reset.  After going through the steps to figure it out, I determined his e-stop relay was toast.  This was an older TB-105 with a negative Mack battery disconnect.  These were notorious for high resistance at the wire contacts of the Mack switch.  Electrical components that are not properly grounded, can fail.  E-stop relays were particularly sensitive.

I wanted him to check his ground, but he didn’t have a meter.  He did have a test light that lit when he touched the positive and negative terminals of the e-stop relay.  That really doesn’t tell me all I need to know. 

He went and got a $5 meter.  When he connected the meter to the positive and negative e-stop terminals, he read 13.8 volts, since the truck was running.  Then I had him connect the negative lead of the meter to a frame ground and touch the positive lead to the ground side of the e-stop relay.  He read 2.3 volts.  I had him touch the positive lead to the M12 screws (combi-box ground) and he still read 2.3 volts.  In both cases, he should have read zero.

The problem will be traced to the connections on the Mack disconnect switch.  NOTE:  When loosening or tightening nuts on the back side of the switch, use 2 wrenches.  There is a wrench flat at the base of the studs.  Use one wrench on those flats to keep the studs from turning and twisting the wires off internally.

Another way to check the ground is by resistance.  Set your meter to OHMS.  Checking between M12 and a frame ground should read nearly zero ohms.  There is resistance in the wire.  Some meters have a continuity tester in the ohms scale.  They should “beep” when checking this way.

Oh, and meters can check diodes, too.  This way we can help you find the smoked diode in the 25 AMP fan circuit that somebody put a 40 AMP fuse in.      

 

Q&A Session – Question 4: Whats wrong with after-market parts and solutions for my Telebelt?

Nothing, as long as they don’t affect the over-all performance of the machine or threaten other more expensive components. Take a look at the photo to the right of a drive pulley cover on a TB105 for example; it is strong and strongly mounted, so strong in fact that it has been responsible for stalling belts for the lucky and wrecking belts for the un-lucky! The intended and designed reason for a cover in this area is just to keep the hose bundle away from the drive pulley. The original solution was just a piece of steel tube bolted across the center and later ended being a piece of UHMW (plastic). The advantage of the plastic is that in the case of a rock or other object getting caught between the belt and the cover, the hundred dollar cover looses not the more expensive main belt. You can finish the day’s placing without the pulley cover but not without the belt! After loosing a main belt, ask your self how much does that cover cost and how nice does it look?

The last photo is of some of the items we at the Putzmeister Repair and Service Center have run across or removed while doing repairs. A single ply belt has never been factory installed on a production TB model of any kind. Why? Because they do not work! Obviously a customer bought what the belt guy was selling. We have never found a method of patching a belt that had any longevity. Any belt patch is a “stop gap” measure at best and neither one of these two even make that grade! Belt strength is rated in pounds per inch of width (P.I.W.). If you cut the belt all the way through the fabric anywhere you have reduced the P.I.W. of the belt. If you cut a big six inch “V” out of the eighteen inch belt, as in the lower sample, you have reduced the belts strength by at least a third. We are not even going to mention that the cut and the patch are within the profile of the scraper! Not only is the scraper blade in the photo just a piece of steel that is not even straight, it is also too long!

In closing, Putzmeister America understands. We know especially considering todays economic times, that rising costs and harder to find work make everyday maintenance and parts replacement a real concern for making ends meet. In an effort to show our understanding and keep us and our customer’s competitive, Putzmeister America’s Customer Support Group has just recently reduced Telebelt parts across the entire line by 15%! In addition, the competitive rates and flexible schedule of our Midwest Repair and Service Center further help you get quality parts with quality, experienced installation. So, next time you need repairs or parts on your Telebelt, please consider the “real” cost of what you are having installed. Both our reputations depend on the quality of those parts.

Q&A Session- Question 1: Why are there 16″ scraper blades on an 18″ belt?

ANSWER:

Telebelts are equipped with “crowned” pulleys. Slightly tapered pulleys allow for easier adjustment when training or tracking of the belt. This is especially true on faster moving belts such as those used to place concrete. This feature is even more important for the purposes of belt training when the conveyor is telescopic, multi-section as is the Telebelt. Trust me, flat pulleys were tried in the very early design and training the belt throughout the telescope range was impossible! Even when only half the pulleys were flat it was still an impossible task to track the belt.

When a tensioned belt wraps around a tapered pulley it leaves that pulley with its edges opposite the pulley taper. That is to say the belt comes off the pulley in a crescent shape, with edges of the belt somewhat lower than the center (see diagram 1, left). For this reason, using a scraper as wide as the belt wears out the edges of the belt pre-maturely.

Getting proper surface tension between the blade and the belt also becomes more difficult because the force being used to pull the scraper against the belt has to deflect the edge of the belt that much more before adding any appreciable force in the middle or center (once again see diagram 1). This problem becomes worse the further behind the pulley the scraper is mounted. This is because you now have to deflect the tensioned belt in both directions, width and length, before significantly effecting the tension of the blade against the surface of the belt (see diagram 2, below, – upper right-hand corner).

You may have read in some of our past literature words like belt “flutter” and scraper “bounce”. These are also symptoms of the scraper being too far behind the pulley. A mistimed or an unlucky scraper bounce can catch a rock and render the scraper useless, or worse wreck a belt! A “fluttering” belt will not run clean. In all cases, an 18” blade on an 18” belt makes every condition or symptom worse!

When you hear customers saying things like; “I just can’t get that thing to run clean no matter how much I tension the scraper!” or “My scraper springs are stretching and I have run out of adjustment on the scraper chains or T-handles!”, the main two causes are scraper blades that are too wide and scrapers that are too far behind the pulley.

Besides these problems, you have to ask why do you want to clean the belt out that wide anyway? The tunnels, even on a machine set up for high volume placing, will only expose a max of 12” or 14” of belt, and most are set up with only about 9” to 11” of belt exposed. The material leaves these transfer skirts on a “V” shaped belt and the material profile on the belt doesn’t reach to those outside edges of the belt. If the concrete is so liquid that the material profile within that the normal “V” shape or in the discharge transition area reaches the edges of the belt, more than likely the belt is running too slow or there is too much belt exposed between the skirts or both. The bottom-line is that on a machine that is properly set up and run, there is nothing out on the last inch of belt on both sides to clean!

The only historical leg to stand on in defense of same width blades and belts is that the earliest Telebelt model I mentioned earlier ran 16” blades with a 16” belt. There are couple reasons for this. Firstly, that machine ran 4” pulleys and they just were not as aggressively tapered, lessening the severity of the systems described above. Second, and the most reality based reason, is that the manufacture just never got around to making a 14” scraper blade (assigning a whole new part number, etc). Every other concrete conveyor built used the ‘2” narrower than belt width scraper blade’, up to and past 48” belts. So, the only machine that ever used same width scrapers did so because the manufacture just never got around to making a 14” blade with some of its components allowing it to get away with that oversight. That doesn’t make it correct!

Setting Telebelt Feeder Lift Pressure Switches

Function:  When the main conveyors are slewed, the brakes on both the feeder and the main release.  If this happens with the feeder off the ground, the feeder will:
a) swing behind the main conveyor like a real long counterweight, or
b) take off downhill if the machine is not level.

The feeders are raised hydraulically, but they lower by gravity as the oil passes through an orifice.  The feeders must be fully lowered for the mains to slew.  It looks like you are “powering down,” but you’re just letting the cylinder and rails relax.

If there is enough pressure in the feeder elevate circuit, the (NC) pressure switches open and break the connection to the slewing valve.  The WBV valve still goes to the “boom” side.  One switch disables slew right and the other disables left, and they are both connected to the feeder lift line through a manifold block.  No oil flows to release the brakes when the slewing valve doesn’t throw.

Symptoms:  Main will not slew left, but slew right works, or vice-versa.  It’s very rare for the main to not slew in either direction because of pressure switch adjustment, but it can happen if there is enough pressure on the system.  All functions work manually.  Cable remote makes no difference.

 “Field Fix” (to complete a pour):

  1. Make sure the feeder is down fully.  All pressure must be off the feeder elevate cylinder.
  2. After confirming feeder is firmly on the ground, try manual control.  Make sure to move the WBV (selector valve) andthe slewing valve.  If it still doesn’t slew, the problem is not the pressure switch.  If the main does slew, options are:
    1. Operate slewing manually to finish the pour.  Keep the feeder firmly on the ground while slewing the main.
    2. Bypass the pressure switches by:
      1. Removing the plug connector from the top of one the switches.  On a 110, it might be necessary to remove the fan shroud to do this.  If the problem is unchanged, that is the correct plug.  If it now won’t swing either way, replace that plug and remove the other one.
      2. Put a jumper wire between pin 1 and pin 2 of the plug.  A piece of tie wire will do.  Do not reconnect the plug, but tie it out of the way to keep it from shorting.
    3. Alternate bypass – Jump X10-17 to X10-18 for right or X10-19 to X10-20 for left.
    4. This is a temporary fix and permanent repairs MUST be made before taking the unit out again. 

     

    Procedure for Setting Telebelt Feeder Lift Pressure Switches

    NOTE: THIS PROCEDURE CAN ONLY BE PERFORMED WHEN THE SWITCH IS INSTALLED IN THE CIRCUIT. THESE ILLUSTRATIONS ARE MERELY FOR SHOWING THE SWITCH.

    The feeder lift pressure switches are installed to prevent the main boom from slewing when the feeder is off the ground.  This is a safety system.  The switches are installed in the feeder elevate hydraulic circuit.

    To set the switches, you need a continuity tester, 1/8” Allen wrench and a flat-head screwdriver.

    Procedure:

      1. Support machine with outriggers.
      2. Unstow the feeder from the rest on top of the main boom and slew feeder to side of machine.
      3. Lower empty feeder (NO HOPPER OR ATTACHEMENTS) until the feeder legs are 1 to 2 feet off the ground.
      4. Turn off the remote.  The truck engine can also be shut off.
      5. Remove wire connection plugs from both switches.
      6. Remove small brass screw adapters from both switches.  These are the adapters that the plugs screw in to. 

      1. Connect a continuity tester to terminal #1 and #2 (terminals are labeled on switch and plug)

      1. With 1/8” Allen wrench, turn the pressure adjustment screw in, (screws are located under the brass screw plug you removed), until you get continuity, then back screw out until you loose continuity.  From this point, back the adjustment screw out ½ turn more, this is your final setting.

    1. Repeat steps 8 on the other switch.
    2. Reinstall the brass screw adapters and wire connection plugs.
    3. Restart the engine, reset the remote and test the settings by lowering the feeder to the ground, then lift main boom out of the boom rest and slew main boom to the right and the left.  The main boom should slew.  Then raise the feeder off the ground and slew main boom right and left.  The main boom should not move.

Telebelt Receiver Fuses

The e-stop circuit of Telebelts includes the HBC 735 radio receiver.  Actually, the e-stop circuit supplies power to the radio receiver. 

The images below, A370160 Pg 4 and Pg 5 show the circuit. To view at a larger size, click on each photo individually and they will open in a new window.

The 12V supply (red) goes through the e-stop stations to X81 pin 13.  X-81 is located on the right-hand (hinge side) of the control cabinet.  The power then goes through a fuse in the radio receiver and returns to X81 pin 5, and then through the e-stop stations to 4A17, the e-stop relay. 

 

 

 

This image shows the pin locations on X81.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The image shows the inside of the 735 radio receiver.  There are 4 fuses called out in the image, and their reference numbers correspond to the reference numbers in the image that follows.

 

They are:

42 = Power supply primary – 6.3A

43 = Power supply secondary – 1.0A

44 = Proportional output card – 12.5A

45 = E-Stop card – 4A

 

 

All of these fuses remove by pushing the end cap in slightly and rotating it to the left.  When the cap releases, a spring pushes it out a little.  The fuse will be attached to the cap.  You might need a coin or flat blade screwdriver to remove the cap.

 

RULE #1 – The problem is NOT in the radio system

 

Symptoms of a problem:  

 

E-stop will not reset and there are no LED’s lit on the receiver.

 

FUSE FAILURES IN THE RECEIVER ARE RARE.  Make sure you check all the way through the e-stop circuit (SEE RULE #1).  A blown 4F17 or a bad e-stop button causes the same symptoms.

 

If you have no power at pin X81-13, the problem is NOT in the receiver.  If you have 12V at X81-13 and zero volts at X81-5, check fuses 42 and 43 in the receiver.  Either one of these fuses, when blown, cause these symptoms.

 

Before replacing any fuses and turning power back on, find the short.  Likely places are faulty e-stop buttons or their boxes, or cable shorts between X81 and the radio receiver.  The 90’ cable can be substituted for troubleshooting purposes.

 

E-stop will not reset and there are LED’s lit on the receiver.

 

SEE RULE #1.  There are many possibilities, including:

  • Remote switch problem.  Verify with cable remote
  • See control box schematic:
    • Blown 3F64
    • 4K69 or 3K275 bad or unseated – confirm by flashing 4A17-T33 to 4A17-T-34
    • 4A17 connections bad
    • 4A17 defective
  • Problem with receiver cable from X81 – use 90’ cable to confirm

 

If all else doesn’t correct the problem, check 4A fuse #45 on the e-stop card.  If the receiver cover is off, you will see the “light show,” but attempts to reset will just cause relays on the card to click.

 

E-stop will reset and there are LED’s lit on the receiver.  Only non-proportional functions (toggle switches) work, but moving joysticks only cause the WBV (Boom/Outrigger) selector valve to move.  The actual function levers do not move.

 

RULE #1 might not apply.  This is opposite from when the pilot valve relay is bad, or when you turn on the transmitter but don’t reset.  In that case, the function levers move but the WBV valve does not.   Just to be sure, use the cable remote to confirm the radio problem, then check the 12.5A fuse #44 on the proportional output card.

 

Before replacing any fuses and turning power back on, find the short.  Likely places are faulty cables or plug connectors on MBC valve, or cable shorts between X81 and the radio receiver.  The 90’ cable can be substituted for troubleshooting purposes.

Tele-Teaching Telebelt Radio Remotes

There are some differences between Putzmeister boom pump remotes and Telebelt remotes.  Let’s look at them.

The early Telebelt radio functions were programmed via Tele-Teach battery, using buttons on the side of the receiver.  The newer “Ergonic” (single joystick) Telebelt remote controls are set up a little differently.

The Ergonic radio transmitters have no Tele-Teach buttons.  They are programmed with a Tele-Teach battery.  They are also different in that you Tele-Teach rabbit ONLY.  Do not Tele-teach snail, with the battery.  The minimums you set, in “rabbit,” will be the minimums used by “snail.”

NOTE:  Any Tele-Teach battery will work.  The older (yellow) Tele-Teach batteries have a lower amp/hour rating than the new (red) ones, and don’t last as long.  If you are using a yellow battery, make sure it is fully charged.  Use your standard battery for set-up, and then switch to the Tele-Teach battery for programming.

The procedure:

  • Properly set the Telebelt on outriggers.  Raise the feeder and transfer and set the feeder on the ground.  Raise the boom out of the transport rest, high enough to clear mufflers and inlets.  Allow room for boom movement in all directions.
  • Turn the radio off and insert the Tele-Teach battery.
  • Hold the “+” AND “-” buttons in while turning the radio on.  The green transmit light will be blinking twice as fast.

Each function, e.g. slew right, has to be set for minimum and maximum.  Only one function can be set at a time.  It is necessary to be able to see the Modular Boom Control (MBC) valve while programming.  So, let’s set “slew right” on the rabbit side.

  • Reset the e-stop with the horn-reset/outrigger switch.
  • Set throttle up to max
  • Set boom speed switch to “rabbit.”
  • While watching the WBV (selector) valve, move the joystick to the right
  • When the WBV moves to the boom position, stop moving the joystick farther and hold that position.
  • After a slight delay, the boom should start creeping to the right.  If it moves too quickly, use slight taps on the minus (“-“) button to slow it down.  If there is no movement, use slight taps on the plus (+) button.
  • Release the stick, then move it back to the start position to check the setting.  Very often the slight taps will take you too far.
  • When you are satisfied with the start point, slowly move the stick to full right, while watching the slewing valve.  The slewing valve must contact its mechanical stop AT THE SAME TIME you reach full right on the stick.
    • If it hits too soon, you have a narrow adjustment window in the stick, and the boom will be jerky.
    • If it doesn’t hit at all, you will not get full speed
  • While holding the stick full right, adjust valve handle travel with the plus and minus buttons.  PAY ATTENTION TO BOOM POSITION.  If you are getting close to something, like the feeder, slew left and start again.
  • After setting the maximum, recheck the minimum setting.
  • Repeat for the remaining 5 functions.
  • Turn the radio off.  The settings will be retained by the transmitter memory.
  • Remove the Tele-Teach battery and replace it with the regular battery.

NOTE:  Telebelts manufactured after early 2011 have “teachable” feeders.  Set the horn-reset/outrigger switch to outrigger and use the battery to Tele-Teach feeder slewing and elevate in “rabbit” mode, ONLY.  User-defined mode and “snail” mode have no effect on those speeds.

Now, before you stow the outriggers, let’s set slew right in the “snail” position:

  • Turn the radio on and reset the e-stop.
  • Switch the boom speed control to “snail.”
  • Move the stick to the right until the WBV valve engages.  The “creep” speed will be the same as it was in “rabbit.”  DO NOT attempt to Tele-Teach this minimum.  That will change the rabbit setting as well.  Center the stick.
  • To set the maximum speed for snail slew right
    • Move the boom speed switch up to the user-defined position and hold it there.  It’s spring-loaded.
    • Move the joystick right until the desired maximum speed is reached and hold the stick at that position.
    • Release the boom speed switch
    • Center the joystick.  Now, even if you move the joystick all the way right, the boom will only slew to the maximum you set with user-defined.
    • If you want to change the maximum, just repeat the procedure.
    • Repeat for the other functions.

Telebelt Ergonic Radio

Tele-Teach Battery

Telebelt Belt Card Adjustments

Putzmeister Telebelts give the operator the means to adjust the speeds of the main and feeder conveyors.  When adjustments are made to the belt speed knobs (potentiometers), a variable signal (4 to 10 mA) is sent to the 14A20 amplifiers. Depending on the input signal, these amplifiers supply 0 to 10 volts to the belt on/off relays, then to the 14A24 proportional amplifiers, known as belt cards.

The belt cards supply voltage to the motor control valves 14B36.  Feedback sensors on the motor control valves report valve position back to the belt cards.

Note: Older Telebelts have the belt circuits on schematic page 10. The components are 10Axx, instead of 14Axx.

All of the components in the belt card circuits operate on 24 volts.  The 12/24 converter is on the inside of the cabinet door.  The belt cards are protected by 24v fuses. All 24v conductors are purple.

There are two completely separate circuits (refer to A370160K, pages 6 and 14 shown here):

A370160KUNIFIEDCRTLBOX 06

A370160KUNIFIEDCRTLBOX14

Main belt:  A43.1,  14A20.1, 6K360, 14A24.1, 14B36.1

Feeder belt: A43.2, 14A20.2, 6K361, 14A24.2, 14B36.2

Older TB-105’s using schematic A383009 have the same components on pages 6 and 10. The component numbers are 10A20.1,2, 10A24.1,2 and 10B36.1,2

The belt cards have indicator LED’s and adjustment screws as shown.

TelebeltBeltCard

Telebeltbox

TelebeltBoxCloseUp

Belt card adjustment may be required for component wear or replacement.  If the belt cards were swapped for troubleshooting, and not put back where they came from, adjustments could be off.

ADJUSTING CARD SETTINGS

The following outlines the adjustment of the four adjustable values of the belt cards.  All values INCREASE by turning CLOCKWISE.

Ramp Adjustments

“Ramp Up” controls the time it takes the belt to accelerate to its set speed, and “Ramp Down” controls the time it takes the belt to decelerate to a stop. Adjustment is from 0 –5 seconds.  Care must be taken if adjustment is made, since it is possible to have the feeder in a ramp cycle while the main is not running.

Factory setting:

1. Decrease all ramp screws (counterclockwise) to zero

2. Set ramp down on both cards to two full turns open (clockwise)

3. Set main ramp up to four full turns open (clockwise)

4.Set feeder ramp up to six full turns open (clockwise)

To be sure which way to turn the screws, remove a card and look at the adjustable resistor connected to the screws.  Turn the screws counterclockwise so the sliding “slugs” in the resistors move to the end away from the black face plate of the card. There are no stops, so there is no way to turn too far.  This is the zero point in step 1.

Max

The gain “MAX” screw adjusts the gain of the belt speed knobs.  To check these adjustments, time the belts while running them at full speed with the manual by-pass.  Next, run the belts with the remote to see if the same speed is reached.  If the belt is slower, increasing the gain will speed the belt up.

STOP increasing the setting when the belt doesn’t go any faster.  You can determine this by timing the belt, or just go by the sound of the belt.  Turning the gain screw up too far narrows the adjustment “window” on the belt speed knobs.  Therefore, if you have a belt that doesn’t run until “3” or “4,” and full speed is reached at “6” or “7,” set the knob at “10” and decrease the gain setting until the belt starts to slow down.  This will open the “window” back up.

Zero

The zero screw calibrates the position of the feedback sensor.  Whenever the e-stop circuit is reset, the LED’s on the belt motor controllers will be on.  The ZERO setting positions the valves so that the belts are not running.

If the ZERO is too high, the belts can “creep” or run slowly when the belt switches are off.  Pushing an e-stop will stop the belts.  With the e-stop reset, adjust by turning the ZERO screw counterclockwise toward “-“, 1/8 turn at a time, until the belt stops.

If the ZERO is too low, a speed setting of “2” or “3” might be required to get the belt to move.  Increase the ZERO setting until the belt just starts, then back off until it stops again.  Subsequent adjustments might be necessary, due to change in resistance from the rollers, scrapers or skirts.

TelebeltRemoteControl